Is it possible to run lean with every single NA mod?
 

Or do the betas supply more than enough fuel if you were to add every single NA mod/performance part that was made for it? I thought I read that with every NA mod you could be close to 200 horses (no nitrous). Does the fuel system/ECU supply that much?

You can put on every N/A mod ever made for these cars, still would probably never make it to 160,yes MadMAx back in the day in Korea, made 200WHP all N/A built motor, Tuned.



Maybe all N/A mods and Nitrous, you will be close to 200 WHP....



Yet, i did the N/A thing plus nitours and was running a wet kit, worked out pretty well!



Never went lean....

so, is it basically senseless to install a Unichip Piggyback system when you're running N/A?



Please correct me if i'm asking an unrelated question to the thread. i have this notion that the Unichip would improve AFR after installing N/A mods. but if the motor would never run lean / rich after the N/A mods then a piggyback wouldnt be necessary, right? or would a piggyback still give gains albeit lower ones compared to a turbo?

It could see it being usefully, but for the 2 whp you are more than likely going to get out of the Uni Chip, isnt going to be cost effective. You would be better off just spending it on nitrous!



Also the stock ecu will self tune, if you want a effective self tune, just remove power from the car for like 10 minutes, then start it up and drive the sh*t out of it for a bite, you will have a slightly more aggresive tune just from the Stocker!

i've done the aggressive driving after i install mods. works like a charm! :)



about the 2hp gain, that's assuming that no tuning has been done on a dyno, right? proper tuning on the dyno would (hopefully) give better gains? of course, the gains would always be smaller than compared to a turbo / nitro. has someone done this before? What gains were seen with a piggyback + tuning with only IHE installed?

Hello mousepad.



The ecu in your car is a licensed version of the Bosch Motronic system which I believe operates on a closed loop principle. This system is very good at running the car no matter the grade of fuel. Obviously the higher grade of fuel allows easier generation of power with greater economy. More fuel efficient if you will. The ecu is well capable of adjusting for mild tuning mods without leaning out.



I would have thought to "tune" a car on the dyno, you would have to have access to the ecu to change the mixture settings and so forth, in which case you will need some entry point to the ecu via piggy back, if not an aftermarket programmable ecu.



If you apply the rules that have always been in place to hop up engines then you should attack intake first, exhaust and then head work. All of which should only be done after the vehicle is properly suspended, braked and tyred.



FYI. The ecu reset trick works well initially but gradually tapers back towards economy driving.



Cheers



Andrew