Hey everyone, I've searched several times on this topic but i couldn't find any posts that really satisfied my questions, so i'll apologise in advance and give Red Zman full privileges to flog me if they were there laugh.gif

My question for the people who have their car in winter storage is what do you go through to store your car in the winter? Or what would you do if you could?

Some things i've been trying to figure out are:
1) what are good maintenance procedures to do before you put it into storage
- if you have a carputer, or other electronic additions, do you take them out?
- change fluids to prevent freezing, etc
2) what do you do, if anything, while your car is in storage?
- start it every week/just leave it, etc
3) what maintenance do you have done on the car when you bring it out after winter?
- change fluids to reflect temperature change
- brake job, etc

Also, do you have your car in a heated garage over the winter, and does it really matter?
And for the people who rent space to store their cars, what's the average cost involved, and does it include insurance/heating/etc

Thanks everyone for dealing with my ignorance, and i hope to see some responses soon! fing02.gif

Throw a coat of F27 urithane wax on it, drive it normally. F27 is thick and lasts a year.

Give us more information. Is your car in a garage (attached to a home or stand-alone, or parking garage)?

You're in Ontario - for those not familiar, how cold does it average from Jan - April?

I live in Nashville, Tennessee. It never drops below 0 here. We get a lot of ice, and only one good snow a year (good meaning 2-3"). I keep my car in an attached 2-car garage that stays around 40 degrees since the house helps insulate it.

For winter storage, I put a pillow under each tire for comfort, a blanket over the engine for warmth and close the hood on it (not latched) - I disconnect the battery making sure the connectors won't touch the terminals if something bumps the car - I keep the interior sealed off (doors, windows, sunroof, hatch) with a very light smelling air freshener (not something strong, just something light). I make sure before I lock it up that I didn't just drive it in the rain -- I don't want water in the carpets to sit there for 3 months, so I make sure it's cleaned out (dust, vaccuum, make sure everything is dry). I roll up the window with a towel hanging out, so it drapes over the door - this helps prevent door dings from the Mustang that I'll be driving everyday.

I don't change the fluids until I bring it out of storage, that way all the fluids that sit there over the winter are changed out. Our winters aren't that harsh though... so I don't do much.

I'm debating on putting it in the barn, the garage, or rent space. With the barn and garage options there's a good chance that mice will get in, so that's why i'm considering dishing out the money for renting a space.

In Ontario, where i am, it can get to below -30C (average -10-15C), get up to 3 feet of snow (averaging 1-2 at all times) - depending on that winter and snow drifts.

Also, another question, i've heard of people taking their tires off and putting the car on stands over the winter... is this worth the work?

When I left my car sitting for 6 months, I jacked it up and put it on jack stands so the tires wouldn't get flat spots in them. I don't know if this helps, or if there's any point to it. I didn't go as far as taking the wheels off. If there's a chance of water standing around the tires and freezing, I'd jack it up and keep the tires off the floor - you don't want them to dryrot.

For all posters, I believe:
-30ºC = -22ºF
-10ºC = +14ºF

Ok i did a little research and found a couple things for ya.

Somewhat in order but what you chose my vary.

Before you put your car away for the season give it a good wash and wax job. It is VERY IMPORTANT to always store your car clean. Don't forget to wash off the undercarriage. After all, that's were most of the rust starts. A good coat of wax on the car will protect the finish against stains if something happens to get on it during the time it is being stored. If you use a car cover, put it on while the car is clean and dry to protect against dirt, dust and possible scratches. DO NOT cover your car with plastic or one of those blue tarps that you can get at the hardware store. It only traps moisture, and trapping moisture between the finish and a piece of plastic will make the paint bubble and rust will begin to form.

Take your vehicle for a drive and get everything warmed up before you park it. By getting your car up to operating temperature it helps to burn off contaminants in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust system. NOTE: Don't start your car during the winter unless you plan to drive it or allow it to get up to normal operating temperatures. "Short running" the engine will allow moisture to build up in the crankcase and exhaust system.

Change your oil and oil filter. Fresh oil will protect the internal parts of your engine better because there are less hydro-carbons and other contaminates in fresh oil. If you would rather change your oil in the spring, be sure to do it as soon as possible after you get the car out of storage.

Check and fill all major fluids, including brake fluid, clutch fluid. Also be sure your antifreeze is clean and fresh to avoid the cooling system from freezing or possible corrosion.

Fill the gas tank just before you park the car for the winter. (This will help prevent moisture from condensing inside the tank). . If you are not planning to visit your car during the winter, be sure to add a good fuel stabilizer.

Remove the battery and keep it charged. When storing a battery you should keep at as close to room temperature as possible and it should be kept off of the floor so that it doesn't discharge. Store it on a wooden shelf or on a large block of wood (a piece of 4x4) several inches off of the floor to keep it from discharging.

Put steel wool or rolled up scotch-brite pads in the tailpipes and also in the air-intake openings to keep mice from using your car as a food pantry.
(I still have acorns in my hood from the previous owner of my car that i cant get out...)


On cars with 4 and 5-speed transmissions you can place a board on the clutch pedal rod to partially depress it, that helps to avoid the risk of the clutch and flywheel rusting together. (If you are only storing the car for a few months this really shouldn't be necessary). Never set the parking brake. The brake shoes or pads could stick to the drums or rotors or the cables could rust or freeze up during storage.

If you store your car off of the ground, (on jack stands), the stands should be under the suspension. If not, damage to the shocks and other suspension parts can occur. Jacking the car up will remove the weight from the springs and prevent flat spots on the tires (more common on older bias ply). Spray the rubber bushings with a good quality spray to prevent rot.

relieve the pressure from your fuel system. This can be done by starting the car and then disconnecting the fuel-pump.

If you store your car on the ground be sure to over-inflate the tires slightly. Five to 15 pounds should be enough. Even tires that are new or in good condition can lose around one or two pounds of pressure per month. When you get your car back out in the spring, re-check the pressures to insure against tire damage. Put a moisture-absorber, like baking soda, inside the car to keep mildew from starting inside the cars interior. (From mildew come mold, from mold comes a new interior). If you store your car inside a heated area leave the windows opened about 1/4 to 1/2 inch to allow the air to circulate.

Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold. Mouse traps or poisons placed around the car is also a good idea, BUT be sure that your dogs and cats can't get to it. Place them around the car every several feet. Leave your sun visors down so it is more difficult for mice to get into the headliner if they do get into the car. NOTE* Mothballs will repel some pests, but the smell stays in the car for a long time. Don't put them IN your car. Bars of soap placed in an open plastic butter tub or coffee can in the trunk and front and back floorboards work good too. They smell a lot better too.

Always store your car on a vapor barrier like a large piece of plastic. Try not to store your car where vehicles will be coming in and out during the winter months. They bring moisture in with them. If you are like me, (somewhat forgetful), make notes and leave them on the front seat or tape them to the windshield to remind you what needs to be done in Spring to get the car ready for the summer season.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (bullfrog @ Jan 23 2008, 12:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>DO NOT cover your car with plastic or one of those blue tarps that you can get at the hardware store. It only traps moisture, and trapping moisture between the finish and a piece of plastic will make the paint bubble and rust will begin to form.</div>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (bullfrog @ Jan 23 2008, 12:55 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Always store your car on a vapor barrier like a large piece of plastic.</div>

Umm... is it just me, or did you just contradict yourself?


Other than that, sounds like some good info - thanks! fing02.gif

Anyone else out there want to share what they do/have heard/would like to do?

^ ^ in one quote he's talking about putting a tarp ON your car... the other he's talking about putting your CAR ON a vapor barrier.

in one scenario, your car is on the plastic (good)
in the other, the plastic is on your car (bad)

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (xLotusx @ Jan 23 2008, 06:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Umm... is it just me, or did you just contradict yourself?


Other than that, sounds like some good info - thanks! fing02.gif

Anyone else out there want to share what they do/have heard/would like to do?</div>

Anythings possible with me but Majik cleared it up for me. Maybe this could be used as a FAQ or placed someplace for information.

I've made it a sticky for now - we'll keep it there during the winter months

You could rename it after winter to something like "How to store your car long term" or something like that.

I've had my Tib stored all of this winter, and I live in northern Alberta. It gets much colder here than it does in Ontario. smile.gif We have a normal average of -20C through January with bad days going below -40C.

I have mine out in my unheated garage, with the battery disconnected. That's all the storage i've ever been taught to do.
But as soon as spring comes, i'll be doing a full service on it.

The flat spots on the tires should only happen if you store it for a longer period of time. 5 months -shouldn't- cause that unless your tires are half-flat when you store, or they are known to leak.

Thanks for all the info guys, and clearing that plastic thing up.

^^ When you mean full-service can you go into details of what exactly you get done/do

So wait, I get to flog you?

LOL

WOOHOO!


Anyways, for the harsh winters here in New Mexico, I usually drive it like every other day and wash it less frequently.

nana.gif

Must be nice Z man. So thats no scraping ice daily in the morning off the windows? Frozen locks? Freezing cold leather seats, Rust...

Your missing a whole bunch of fun then! laugh.gif


Xlotus-

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...2;tune+up\
Here is a link to a pretty good post about tune ups. It has some good information in it, some stuff will not need to be done every winter but It has a lot of good info on keeping your car in good condition.If you cant remember the last time you did some of these then there is no time like spring to have a few good weekends with your car getting ready for summer.

I put it mine up on stands in my storage garage I rent. Also make sure the antifreeze is strong enough to protect it. Also disconnect the battery and put seafoam in the gas tank to keep it good. Should start right up when you get it.

i drive me car till it feels like snow is gonna fall... i will never wiat too long. but i take it to a storage place and get a 10 x 15 stall and leave it in there with a car cover. i stop by and visit it every 2 weeks or month and start it up and drive it around the storage lot a little bit and then tuck her back in for a nap tongue.gif then when i bring it out i doiuna full service and fluid change and then shes good to go!

lol, I drive it, in snow, cold, rain, whatever. Last year while I was in Toronto I drove it to school everyday, but had the stock rims on it. This year, back in NY, I'm driving it, and didn't bother to take the good rims off. It's been fine so far, luckily I've had off from work on the days when it snowed bad (all what, 2 days maybe). I had to drive it through upstate NY in a snow storm, and got salt all over it, but then 2 days after I got back down to NY we had a 60 degree day and I was able to wash it all off.

My husband stores his cars all over the place, I think one is at a friend's cottage up north, and the other 3 are in our underground parking garage. He drives the one, and the other two sit. He starts them up from time to time. We can't wait to get our own place with garage, but it'll most likely be a 1 car with our budget, so we're gonna end up fighting over it.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>i drive me car till it feels like snow is gonna fall... i will never wiat too long. but i take it to a storage place and get a 10 x 15 stall and leave it in there with a car cover. i stop by and visit it every 2 weeks or month and start it up and drive it around the storage lot a little bit and then tuck her back in for a nap then when i bring it out i doiuna full service and fluid change and then shes good to go!</div>

^ I do pretty much the same thing, other than driving it around the lot. I rented a stall in the basement of an "abandoned" building. Its heated, and I have access 24/7. Theres also a lot of older guys that restore their cars in this "basement", so theres always people around incase I have to jack the car up, and get underneath it.

^hey Rick how much is rent a month there?

$110, but they just installed a door with a Keypad and Security system for the building. But for the access to the car in the winter, running water, electricity, a GIGANTIC air compressor, and heat. Its worth it in my mind. Not only that, theres very few places like it. When you see it from the road, you wonder why it hasn't been torn down.

Winter Car Storage
 

Since some of us live in areas where theres alot of snow and salt on the roads, during the winter months, I figured this will be a good time to discuss some winter storage tips. I've gone through these tips every year since owning my Tib and never had any issues come the spring time, when pulling it out of hibernation. Feel free to add any additional ones that you all have as well.

I'll add this to the tutorials section also:


1. Remove any faceplate's that have an LCD/OEL screen that can freeze. Even if you store your car in a garage, like I do...it can still get cold enough to cause damage to the faceplates.

2. Park on boards. Don't let your tires sit on cold concrete. Its not that you will develop flat spots by not moving the car, but the concrete will actually absorb the moisture out of the rubber and damage the tire. Its not necesary to put your car on stands. Your car sits on your suspension for years on end, the few months over the winter isnt going to have any impact. The only reason lifting the car is sometimes suggested, is in place of parking on boards.

3. Battery. I know alot of people recommend removing your battery, but thats not necessary if you park it inside a garage. You can if you like, but you can also go and get a small 1 amp trickle charger, and leave it connected and plugged in all winter, without damaging the battery. If your car sits outside and it gets super cold, you might want to remove the battery though so it does not freeze.

4. Fuel stabilizer. When gasoline sits, it can break down and form gum and varnish, which will clog a fuel system. What's more, any moisture left in the system can cause rust. The solution: Add a container of fuel stabilizer to the gas tank, then fill the tank to the top right before putting the vehicle into storage. The short drive home from the gas station will circulate the stabilized fuel throughout the system, keeping the gas fresh and the system safe until the vehicle is ready to ride again.

5. Venting your exhaust. If you decide to fire up your car every 2-3 weeks while its in a garage and you dont want to open the garage door, be sure to attach a dryer vent hose to the exhaust, and vent it outside. Otherwise, your garage and house will fill up with fumes.

6. When you take your car out in the spring, make sure you change your oil. If the oil is due before you store it, change it then, but its only gonna sit for 4 months its not gonna hurt it having 2-3000 mile old oil in it. It's important to remove any acid, moisture and other contaminants from an engine by changing the oil and filter before putting a vehicle to sleep for the winter. It's okay to use the same-viscosity oil as usual, as long as the oil contains corrosion protection.

7. Don't let the cooling system freeze during the winter. Drain the system (including the radiator) and refill it with a rust-inhibiting antifreeze. This isnt super important, but its just a good thing to do as preventative storage maintenance.

8. Protect the paint. Give the vehicle a good washing before it's put away for the winter to remove any road dirt or grime, and be sure to dry it thoroughly, too. Then apply a protective coat of wax. Finally, slip on a breathable cloth car cover. (Plastic covers will trap condensation and provide a fertile breeding ground for rust.)

9. Check the insurance. Just because a vehicle is sitting undriven doesn't mean liability coverage is unnecessary. What if someone pushes the car, and it winds up rolling down the driveway and into the neighbor's brand-new Mercedes? Collision and theft coverage can be important, too.

10. Prevent rust. Unpainted metal surfaces, from engine parts to tailpipes, can use a good coat of rust inhibitor.

11. Protect vinyl, leather and rubber. If the vehicle will be stored in a dry garage, it's still wise to apply a preservative to prevent seats, armrests and dash pads from cracking over time.

12. Provide critter protection. All kinds of small animals find vehicle wiring, seats and carpet delectable, and they think cars and trucks make a nice den, too. So cover up your tailpipes, and any open areas. Especially if you plan on leaving the car outside, during the winter.

13. Make sure the Brake and Clutch master cylinders are full of brake fluid. Brake fluid can absorb water very quickly. By reducing the exposed surface area of the fluid, the water absorption can be reduced. If you can, bleed the brake and clutch systems. It is recommended that you do this on an annual basis anyway, to purge the system of old and possibly contaminated brake fluid.

Nice, thanks. Im planning on storing the SRT for the winter. I still plan on taking it for short drives when there is no snow or salt on the roads.

There was a large discussion on RDT regarding this topic

http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=26018

Hey guys....I made a full write up on this topic here:

https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/forum/in...showtopic=15604


And here's the tutorial as well, where you can download the MS Word document too:
https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/forum/in...ticle&id=50

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>4. Fuel stabilizer. When gasoline sits, it can break down and form gum and varnish, which will clog a fuel system. What's more, any moisture left in the system can cause rust. The solution: Add a container of fuel stabilizer to the gas tank, then fill the tank to the top right before putting the vehicle into storage. The short drive home from the gas station will circulate the stabilized fuel throughout the system, keeping the gas fresh and the system safe until the vehicle is ready to ride again.</div>

I recommend Startron (available at Walmart in the marine/boating section). http://www.startron.com/

Been using it in my car, lawnmower, etc... it is a great product for gas that is going to sit for 3-6 months...

:bump: for those who store their cars in the winter...

If the car is left outside in winter, it is easy to lose fire