2011 Sonata and HID's
 

If anyone on here wants to get HID's for their brand new 2011 Sonata GET THE WIRING HARNESS!!! I got 35w 8000k HID kit from DDM Tuning without the wiring relays / harness' and apparantly fried something in my junction box this is displayed by the passenger front turn signal staying lit at all times regardless if the car is on or off.



So now my problem is going to cost me new wiring harness', dust covers, and god knows how much the dealer is going to charge to repair the junction box ... in other words a hell of alot more than the $30 for the HID's.



I swear if I didn't have bad luck I wouldn'tt have any luck at all.

Getting the wiring harness is bad advice. If you're using 35W bulbs, you don't need a wiring harness and you don't need a relay kit. The sonata comes with 55w bulbs If you can't manage to hook up 2 wires, you can't hook up the mess that comes in the wiring harness. Installing HIDs is simple. Normally it goes:



power and ground--------bulb



with HIDs, it's:

power and ground-----ballast-------HID bulb



They supply all the wires that you need with the ballast and the bulb. You don't need to cut anything. You don't need to do anything special.



If you had any problems, you

A. did something wrong

B. got the wrong kit and did something wrong to install it

C. got a bad kit and if you can prove it, the HID kit manufacturer should pay.

More then likely, you had two wires touching which caused over current. The fuse should have popped. The fuse is there to protect the wires. Did you replace the fuse with one of a higher amperage because it kept popping after you installed the new HIDs?

Ummm nope I did nothing wrong with my install, everything worked perfectly. And also I am not the first one to have this happen ...



http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t58368...l-stays-on.htm

I tried to tell you this in the other thread. All the 2011 models are super sensitive to change in the lighting and with the harness the power draw is taken directly from the battery instead of the stock lighting setup. The new MD Elantras are doing the same thing.$5 Harness will save you a lot of trouble, and it's only 2 extra connections!

Sorry if I misunderstood on this. I understood your answer to mean if I went with 35w bulbs I wouldn't need the harnesses, but if I went with the 55w ones I would.



Live and learn I guess .... kinda odd though that only the passenger side was effected tbh.

The HID ddmtuning sent my friend had one that didn't work, and the fitment of the bulb was bad inside of the stock housing, it wobbled around inside of the 9006. I felt bad for referring him :/ but naturally the price was good so he took his chances. The kit looked a bit cheap. I don't trust it, not like the solid Halo kit that fit flawlessly well.



I would totally get a relay kit regardless. The draw at the charge of the HID when initiated is very high. It wires the left HID to draw directly from the battery and reduces the draw on the stock wiring harness, plus it includes its own fuse just in case.



When I didn't have the relay harness, I couldn't use my headlights with my engine off because the headlight fuse would pop. Then I got installed it and everything is normal.

Like I said both headlights worked perfectly and continued to do after the issue with the passenger front turn signal. All the videos I watched http://www.xenonsupply.com/How-To-Vi...daisonata.html and I thought I asked the correct questions here (I apparantly did not). I believed with a 35w bulb in a 55w bulb housing wouldn't need the harness. Also after the issue happened I found out that I was not the only one to have this issue.

Newgenesis...

Amperage (also Amps or A) is what causes heat in wires.

Amps = Watts / Volts



A 35W bulb at 12V = 2.91 Amps

A 55W bulb at 12V = 4.58 Amps



Ok... so the Sonata comes with 2 55 W bulbs. You replaced the 55W bulbs with 35W bulbs. that's 2.5A LESS then the manufacturer recommends for the power to the headlamps overall.



So, now, according to the ratings on the equipment, you are now running less of the fire causing amperage through your wires then the manufacturer intended.



A relay is there to allow you to pull power directly from the battery instead of pulling from the headlight power supply..... Well, you're already pulling directly from the battery.



If you short out the bulb while installing it, then it could cause the harness to burn. If you short out the wires for the ballast it can cause the harness to burn. If the ballast is shorted internally, it can cause the ballast to burn. You obviously have a short. It's either defective equipment or it's installation error.

HKC said the bulb fit in loosely..

Take a look at the construction of aftermarket HID bulbs. http://www.google.com/images?q=after...w=1920&bih=879

If it was loose, then it's likely that the extension wire wire portion could have touched the headlamp housing, causing overcurrent to ground. A high quality HID ballast should have detected this and shut off. If the ballast is capable of detecting it, then the problem was either in the ballast or before the ballast.



You were definitely shorted to ground though.