Bommello

Hey guys so looks like I should be performing my auto->5spd swap in December. I have being sourcing out parts for a while now and feel like I have almost everything. Here's a list of what I have on hand:

Shifter Base
Shifter
Shifter Cables
Mount
Pedals including the clutch pedal assembly
Master Cylinder
Flywheel Bolts
Clutch Fluid Reservoir and lines
Skateboard Bearings
Clutch

Picking up tomorrow:
5 Spd Trans

Going to order shortly:
Flywheel (Fidanza)
MT-90
Starter
Slave cylinder
Shift knob
Shift boot and shift surround stuff.

I think that's pretty much everything. Stocker, Jmans, and anybody else who has performed the swap chime in and let me know if anything is missing!!!!

majik

there are differences of opinion on whether you need new axles. I did not, but order some axle seals from your local dealership for when you pull them out/in. Order a couple extra in case one breaks. They're only like $2. My dealership only had one in stock and had to order the other one (came in following day).



I swapped my starter.



For the reverse lights, you need to replace the connector on the top of the transmission. Auto is oval, manual is round (I think). Just reqire the connector. I think you can see it from looking down next to the battery (if you have CAI).



Edit: Looking back on it... maybe I did swap my starter. I really can't remember, but I know I have a spare in my garage, and I doubt I'd have one if it wasn't swapped with my transmission.

Bommello

Thanks Majik! I wasn't planning on swapping my axles, seems like people have no problems using the auto's. About the seals, I was planning on swapping those, one of those while you are there things lol. Hopefully the trans I pick up tomorrow will still have the connectors attached!

majik

Someone has said that the axles are slightly different in size. I used my auto axles with no problems. Long-term use has not been determined though.

Stocker

Brake pedal! You need the manual brake pedal arm, or else your clutch pedal arm won't fit. Having the whole brake pedal assembly gives you a spare bushing, which is good. . . I broke the pivot bushing on the auto brake pedal arm taking the brake arm out. . . but you don't strictly Need the whole assembly, just the arm.

Get the slave cylinder at your local parts house. O'Reillys had mine in stock for like $15 or $20, no shipping or waiting.

Get a few tubes of silicone rubber and fill the front and rear roll stops, while you're in there (while they're out) and let them cure for a couple days if you can before remounting, but at least overnight/1 day. Do this first, because you'll take a couple days to do the swap unless you thrash it in a weekend, and by the time you need the newly filled mounts, they're ready to install.

Majik you did swap the starter, 'cause the auto one won't work. You have one to sell now. I think it even says AT right on the label, go check it out.

If you can convince whoever is selling you the transaxle to leave the last couple of inches on the reverse switch, you will be that much farther ahead.

I'm at 10k+ miles w/ no difficulty on my auto axles. No worries. The difference in length is very slight.

Things To Remember: support the engine when removing the old transaxle. Go straight to the impact wrench for removing the flexplate bolts. Put a thick piece of cardboard or something stiff over the rad. to protect it. Install the clutch hard line on the master before mounting the master. And be sure to adjust brake AND clutch pedal free play when you're done. Do NOT go for a long drive the same 2AM night you finish the work; check it all over again the next day first. Most important: when you get frustrated or tired, take a break!

You will be SO glad you did this, if it comes out alright. laugh.gif

Bommello

Yea their is a difference in the size of the axles but honestly not worth getting new ones over it... as far as I have ever read lol.

Already have the brake pedal. Slave cylinder I should be picking up at autozone when the swap nears. I already have my mounts filled. I'm getting the trans from a local LKQ I found on car-parts.com, so we'll see what they leave lol. But 175 for a beta 2 with 57k I won't complain. Thanks for the help guys!!!

majik

Oh, and the tranny comes out at an angle.

Jmans

Damn, how did I miss this thread? Lots of important things I need to impart on you.

You have all the wiring ideas laid out? Make sure you get these right! You'll need to run some wire to the clutch safety switch if you want it to work like a factory auto, or you can take landshark's method and bridge some wires so the car starts regardless. If you take course B, then be aware if you're in gear or not when you try starting it up!

From my experiences with junkyards (I've gotten 4 different yard trannies for 4 different cars) they always leave all of the sensors intact along with about 6" of wire, which is a major plus. If they want a core, strip all of the sensors out of yours before you give it to them!

You're getting a beta 2 tranny? Then you need a set of beta 1 manual transmission motor mounts, otherwise it won't go in. You'll also need to grind off the corner of one bit of the tranny, I've got some good up-close photos of the corner in question on my swap thread.

ETA when you get the tranny at the yard, check it to make sure everything you need is there! When I got mine I was in a hurry and missed the fact that they had taken off a piece I needed, I had to go back for it later. My piece I missed was a little metal arm that connects the throw-out bearing's rod to the clutch slave cylinder. Make sure that comes with it!

You will need a new starter, the auto one can't be used.
Use an impact wrench for the axle nuts, I used a 1 - 1/8ths socket, though I'm sure there's a better metric equivalent (maybe 32mm?).
You'll probably need to create some form of a bracket to make your shifter base fit, check my thread, I'm pretty sure I've got the simplest solution. If you really want I can get some diagrams to ursonvs and see about him TIG'ing together a one-piece bracket for you.

Trust me on this, remove the passenger seat and steering wheel before getting in to work on the pedals or wiring. Your back, shoulders, and arms will thank you later. Just take the high road on that one and things will be much easier and it will take less time to remove and reinstall those pieces than it will to have your back realigned later.

Go slow, take your time, walk away if you get frustrated. Take the high roads and it'll look, feel, and work just like it had rolled off the line as a manual, and maybe a little bit better fing02.gif

Bullfrog

Best advice ive seen given in a long time.

Stocker

Totally posted that in my swap thread! BOTH seats in the hatch. You WILL thank us later!

jmans makes a good point about the throwout arm. . . if you're lucky, there *might* also still be a slave cyl. on there.

But you don't have to pull the axle nuts, 'cuz you don't have to pull the axles from the spindles. Just have to unbolt the top of the knuckle and swing the axle out of the way.