funkypc

Redz, did you ever find out the problem?
mine has done this twice now - on Very cold days.

the Idle Actuator Control is the part that is not doing its job. Now this could be wiring, sensors, ecu, etc. (but you know all that.)

REDZMAN

Not yet. I have that code logger, and some tools to help me with the o2 sensor and stuff, but it's been so friggin cold here the past few months that I haven't worked on it.

What I'm going to do is wait till I put my new headers on my RD2. Then get the stock exhaust, all the way back from my RD2, and put it on the RD1 (the RD1 that's having the problems has a huge crack in the manifold. My current train of thought is that the primary o2 sensor, which I pulled, is toast. The hole in the manifold is pushing the readings off and it's stalling out at neutral because of it.), and then swap my GOOD RD2 primary o2 sensor into it. If it runs fine, then I know it was the o2 sensor and such.

Hopefully it's easy. I've swapped everything else out that I can think of. I think I listed most of it further up the thread.

Sousake Sagara

Cracked manifolds seem to be a problem with the Beta's, I had a split manifold about 3 months ago, got a 2nd hand one off a j2 lantra and replaced it. The manifold was only split, around two of the runners. It mainly made a hissing/BOV Pssht sound when I backed off to change gears. I never had a problem with stalling or O2 sensors, never even got a CEL.

How big is the hole in the Manifold?

REDZMAN

It's a good size crack, but the problem is, the engine had OTHER problems that led it to sit outside and not really get started for almost 2 years really. We fixed those, and it was near winter, and ran great for awhile. I think the cooling/heating and sucking in moisture killed that O2 sensor.

Sousake Sagara

^^ Yeah, more than likely reasons it has died.

HyundaiKitCoupe

i agree, put everything you think might be causing the problem back to stock. you will be able to at least rule those things out. porr thing, i hope you just finally get it running.

my car problems were all due to that battery terminal as you know. so as of now i cannot help you.

LoonWulf

Something similar happend to my Neon.

what happend to me is my engine wiring harness got 2 close to my headers. They run them realy close in the 95-99 sohcs, and if your not carefull they will overheat and short. The degrees would vary from dead car, to minor erratic funcitons.

my car would run fine till it reached just above normal driving temp then it would buck, and the idle would go all funky, rpms bouncing and stuff and then it would die. Now with a new harness its running fine.

ive looked at my tibs harness and cant find anyway that it seems likely that it would happen in out cars, but I figgured id toss this out.

oh by the way after my harness shorted, it would bounce the tachs needle like mad if i rev'ed above 2.5k

anyway hope you guys get it fixed

L_W

REDZMAN

Problem fixed, and car sold to ABQElantra. Poor tib has been back and forth so much in this group of friends.

LOL


ABQElantra came over, we had the 2001 Hyundai Shop Manual, and we started looking page by page. He started testing the wiring back from the areas we had gotten previous CEL's from, like the idle bypass controller, the CKP and the CPS, and all of them were showing some sort of short in them at one time or another.

In the meantime, he swapped the extremely badly cracked OEM header for the one out of my 2001 Tib that was sitting around, and we replaced the valve cover and some other bolts that were missing or the wrong type.

ABQElantra drove it for a few days and when the problems resurfaced, he did a bunch of fiddling with the car on his way to my place. He found that he could make it stall, if he kicked up gently where the gas pedal was.

When he got back to my place, we pulled the drivers seat out, and and he got under the dash looking for other stuff that needed done. The Alarm that was installed in it was really SHITE quality, install and all, so he removed it to make sure there wasn't any problem from it. He repaired all of the wiring previously, but the problem was still there.

Then, he followed the gas pedal up and saw that the ECU harness, goes up and over the steering shaft, then above the gas pedal arm and out into the engine bay. The harness was attached to a flap of steel by 2 zip ties, but was sitting over the gas pedal arm, and when you let off of the gas it was hitting the harness. It had been doing this long enough to wear through some of the outer sheathing, and some of the wires inside were exposed and causing a short or low enough voltage when hit that the engine would die. The wires were fixed, re wrapped, and zip tied up out of the way.

Problem is GONE.



Thanks to everyone for all of the ideas, another RD saved from the scrap heap.

DTN

Awesomeo! I thought for sure the problem was the MAF sensor because when you start the car it is supposed to be in open loop untill the o2 sensors warm up enough to start emitting particals and create the reaction that determines the o2 reading. I guess a wire would be a easier cause.