JonGTR

I had the stalling problem once when you let off the throttle and it was because my idle controller came loose.

Check your connection and the unit to make sure it's working. If it's not for some reason, then the car will run fine during throttle and die on idle.

faithofadragon

well i take it the parts i gave you didnt work...

well

you got a mulimeter right? we can go nuts on sensors sometime...

as for coil packs - when i went lookin for patreezys they told me $10 for em so keep that in mind

any little sensors i can "accidently" put in my pocket....

let me know mang

undacovatib

dude, my car did that for 2 days straight...I finally got tired of it and did a fuel injection cleaning for the car. Cleaned the throttle body and the IM and also the Idler Control. Then, bought some plugs and wires and did the basic tune-up....it worked.

REDZMAN

Yeah, I'll prolly Deep Creep this sucker when I get home, check the plugs, replace the wires, clean the idle bypass motor, and some other stuff on that list up there.

albert

With the funky tach situation, it's got to be ECU/Crank Position sensor related. The Semi-Installed S-AFC isn't helping much either.

The 'basic' tune up stuff is always a good thing to do if you have the parts, but otherwise a waste of money if you have to buy new parts.

You've got to track down the source of the erratic tach, all the problems stem off that. If you replace the Crank Position sensor, and the problem is still there, I hate to say it, but you're going to have to "unwire" the S-AFC and restore the stock wiring.

Messing with the Throttle Butterfly and Idle Air bypass is just treating the Symptoms...not the cause, and they still don't address the erratic Tach. Even if your coil pack was on the fritz, it wouldn't alter the TACH signal, that comes straight from the Crank Sensor...

tanc

My guess is your idle motor. Clean that out and the hoses and lets see where you stand after that.







Also..if you do end up parting it out..i need them spring and struts smile.gif im greeeeedy.

Zman

Now that I re-read the original post, and Random's post, I have a doubt:
This erratic reading on the Tach is just the reading? Or is it that the engine actually has an erratic rpm behaviour when the failure presents (like when the TPS is fried)?
Because if its just the Tach needle goping crazy WITHOUT the engine actually revving at those rpms showed, its 100% what Random says... and it would be a waste of time and money to try a lot of diff stuff.
Anyhow, I would still disconect that semi-installed SAFC, I don't what the "semi" stands for, but I wouldn't like any electrical device "semi" installed in my car, because whenever anything happens, it will always be a "shadow of the dark side" on the possible solutions...

REDZMAN

UPDATE!

I went and got a code reader today, plugged it in, turned on the car per the instructions...

No code.

WTF?

So I did it again, no code.

I feel like a moron for not realizing this earlier, but the Check Engine Light was just coming on because the engine had stalled, you know, like when you stall from lookin at the chick with the huge rack?



I replaced it yesterday with a used one, and same problem. I'm going to try swapping it with the one from my RD2 as soon as the engine cools off. As for the SAFC, I'm going to try, I guess I'll start pulling stuff off and see where it all goes to.



I'm going to try that too, and check all the vaccum lines.



It's just the tach, if the engine was doing that, I'd hear/feel it.



I'm going to try to take it out. ABQElantra was installing it when the car was his, and never finished.

Okay, I had this huge update typed up, but photof***bucket decided to move me to their page when it was done uploading.

Here's what I found this afternoon with a deep inspection.

1. PCV valve needs replaced, it's letting air through both ways, not much the wrong way, but more than it should. I swapped with my RD2 but it didn't fix it.

2. The vaccum line on the passenger side of the IM, right next to the grounding points, had a big crack, I cut it behind the crack and reinstalled, didn't fix the problem (WTF does that line go to?).

3. Idle bypass valve, I ran the car and disconnected the tube, it's sucking air through there all the time, just like my RD2. I took it off, cleaned it thoroughly, but it didn't fix the problem.

4. Vaccum tube for the FPR, it was very loose and would just come off way too easily, I zip tied both ends on, no fixy.

5. I took out the SAFC2, it was a bit of a PITA, but I have it all the way out now. What I found is disturbing.







Those are pics of the wiring under the dash. There are wires just hanging free, wires half stripped, some with a few strands of copper cut, and none of it's pretty. This is the result of 2 SAFC 2 installations, a horrible alarm job (Doesn't work either), and god knows what else. I'm not good with wiring, and even less so with electronics, so unless I get some help from someone on here or a neighbor, I"m shit out of luck in this field. I could cut and crimp each one, but getting under there for a big guy like me is a ROYAL PITA for any period of time.

Let me know what I should do next guys.

Tomorrow I will be replacing the TPS with a spare keifco I have, the Crank Position sensor with the one on my RD2, and the plug wires/plugs will be checked and swapped.

a_gut

The 3 important wires are the 2 crankshaft and 1 camshaft position sensor wires - I do believe any of those could be tapped by the SAFC to get an RPM signal, which may have been messing with your idle and RPM gauge behavior. Get those connected properly and see if that fixes it. If you need an ECU diagram I have one around here somewhere.

REDZMAN

Yeah, I could use that.

Faithofadragon might help me this weekend with it.


Anyone else?