REDZMAN

Okay guys, the wife's car started up the same crap that Cyscoo sold it for to ABQElantra again today.

I'm going to put a price limit on how much we will sink into it to repair it. I'm thinking no more than $500. We get to that point, it's a full part out folks.


The issue?

Originally, Cysco had the engine rebuilt at 100K miles and it ran great. Anyways, after he got the car running well, he started having some issues. It would stall all the time, no reason at all, and you HAD to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running. You let off the gas, the RPM's immediately drop to 0 and it dies.

He got tired of working on it, so ABQElantra bought it and we got itup and running in about 45 minutes. What did we do? Bottom screw in the TPS was missing, and it had a DaeSung TPS. We replaced both, fixed a few vaccum leaks, and put in the Injen Clone I had sitting in the closet. We did the evap cannister removal and it's never had a CEL from it. Car drove fine, but would get an occasional CEL for the Crank Position Sensor.

ABQElantra drove it for months, drove it to Las Vegas and the axle situation happened. I bought it, fixed the axle, replaced the crank and TPS (with a Keifco) sensor, and it drove absolutely fine for 3 weeks. Only issue at all was a CEL came and went a few times depending on the temperature (CEL was for catylist efficiency too low and first o2 sensor [it has a cracked exhaust manifold, but Hyundai won't replace it...]), but it didn't effect the driving at all.

So today, we are creeping along in traffic up a slight slope, and her car dies/cel flashes. I go back, help push it to the side of the road, and we look at it for a bit. No leaks, nothing wrong under the hood except for the oil pressure sending unit wire had come off (need a new screw for it). We went and picked up a spare crank position sensor and Keifco TPS (thanks Faith) and tried those, no help, even with a reset ECU. So I start the car and watch, what happens is wierd.

1. You start the car and let off of the gas, the car dies.

2. You start the car and rev the engine a bit, the RPM guage goes erratic, bouncing up to 3K, down to 0, up to 2, down to 1, up to 4, until you stop revving.

3. You can start the car and keep it idling on your own with the gas pedal, all the way down to like 500 RPM, then it drops to 0 and stalls.

4. The CEL is gone, but will come back during the erratic tach actions.

5. It was a royal PITA to drive home. I stalled it about 8 times. I can't take it to an autozone to confirm the CEL right now but I may pick up a code reader tomorrow.

6. The RPM drop is wierd. The car DOES have a fidanza flywheel, but when it was running fine the RPM guage wasn't dropping this fast. It's like as soon as you let off of the gas the tach drops to 0, but the car is still winding down. It's dropping FAST, like this. Let off gas WHAM. 0 RPM, then the engine dies.

7. No misfires, and the car actually still drives pretty well at speed, just can't mess around in 1st or such.


Car = 1997 Tiburon, Rev A, Evap Cannister removed, captive swap.

Mods = GT Cam, P&P Head/Valve Job 3 angle, P&P IM, 61MM BARNEY BBTB, Injen Clone CAI, ACT Stage 3 clutch and a Fidanza Flywheel, Eibach springs, KYBGR2 struts, and now dimpled/slotted rotors in the front, and a partially installed SAFC 2 v2 only reading RPM's I belive.


Please, interject any ideas, my wife is a bit depressed about it as she finally had her car and it was runing great. I don't want to part it out, but we aren't going to keep a money pit around. I'll try just about anything folks, and I've got a 3 day weekend coming up.

DON'T JUST TELL ME TO GET THE CEL CHECKED, I WILL WHEN I CAN THIS WEEK.

KayJai

Well, until you get the CEL read, let's go with the basics

How are your plugs, wires and Coil?

Good thing for you, you have a good RD2 to swap parts with to test before you go buying smile.gif

REDZMAN

Very true on all accounts.

LOL

Plugs, I'm not sure, I'll get ahold of ABQElantra tomorrow and take a look at them. I'm pretty sure, yes, we did in fact change them when he bought it. I belive the wires were new, but I have some brand new PRD's here for it, I'll put those on there tomorrow too. As for the coil, I have no clue. How do you check them? What do you do?

Zman

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO................ it is not fare... KayJay went there first than me only because I took to long to write this post... well, anyway, here it is what I wrote.


Ah a post I can start from fresh... (no previous posts other than the first... lmao.gif this thing rarely happens to me)
It looks like an electrical failure, hence the tach going to zero before you feel the engine stpped completely.
It also looks like the ECU is cutting power to protect engine from malfunction damage (let's try to figure out why ECU thinks engine will harm from operation in given conditions).

First I would discard the GT cam is sending wrong info; why don't you try with stock or 1.8 camshaft? I think it's worth the shot; also it would be a VERY GOOD idea to check all the wiring; my sister in law has a 97 Elantra (weird to have yet another H in the family huh?) and it had a very odd failiure, it would just die from perfect funcioning ocassionally, she would start it again and problem solved for about a week; at the end it was a broken cable terminal, dealer replaced it for $3 and didn't charge labour because they know us.
The other thing it could be is a fried coilpack, that would be harder to try, but maybe Faith's used parts service can help there...
and, at last (at least what I can think off right now) would be a damaged ECU; you can't beleive the huge amount of people that connect their car's battery to another car to help start it WITHOUT DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY CABLES ON THE "GOOD" CAR; I have seen two cases of "fried" ECUs here that stalled after years of service and the only explanation would be the owners not taking good care of the ECU (as to prevent voltage peaks) or because in some Hyundais ECUs just die for no reason.
My strongest bet would go on the wiring and then the coil pack (would be a nice idea to check those spark wires too; I mean, if you are trying other parts, why not discard failure there too huh?)

PS: If the ECU is malfunctioning, the CEL codes might be wrong too, so don't put all your hopes there only.

01tibby

your rpm gauge is wacky and you are having problems with something that is obviously ecu related.

check the crank position sensor. also look on webtech, they have a full troubleshooting section that can probabyl offer some insight.

you know, getting the cel checked will save you a bunch of time from checking other things that might not even be part of the problem. wink1.gif

'treezy

I would like to know this as well, hmaservice.com/webtech has been down for the last two days I've checked it..
maybe I need to try on IE, but I don't know where to start with the coils. How do you check them?

SilentSecret

sounds like your IM is totaly being cut off of air when u release the gas. i forget the name of the part (idle bypass valve maybe) but it allows air into the engine when the butterfly valve is closed on the throttle body.
it might be plugged or stuck in the shut position. its also vaccum line controlled so check your vaccum lines too.

try opening your throttle adjustment screw just enough where the car can get some air. if it still dies then it has to be something electrical.

Zman

^^^
That's a good idea too; once my car was idling rough, I took it to the dealer to check it out, the man there just cleaned the idle motor (with carb cleaner spray on all it's openings) cleaned the electrical connectors to the idle motor/actuator and also to the TPS, you wouldn't beleive how the idle went from rough to smoothe with just that.

OzFxCoupe

RedZ, have you recently touched any of the hoses that relate to your Evap cannister removal?

The reason I ask is because what you described is exactly what was happening to my car when I first removed my Evap cannister & had routed the hoses incorrectly; from memory, it was causing a vacuum in the fuel tank.

REDZMAN

That's what I was thinking, if it were mechanical, something would be making noise or it wouldn't run right. Plus, like I said, it's intermittant, this car ran fine for some time.



I could, and might do this, but it'll be a last resort. I talked to Random last night for some time and he doesn't think it's camshaft related, if it were, the engine would NOT be running well at all, instead of intermittantly.



Hmm, I've looked in the engine bay, but don't see anything wrong. This is the issue here, I'm not good with electronics or wiring, so besides looking for the obvious bare wires, stripped stuff or broken stuff, I'm clueless. Not to mention under the dash stuff. I'm still thinking it could be that damned SAFC2, but I am worried about taking it out, I have no clue what I'm doing.

As for the coilpacks, HOW? I have no clue how to do that and have asked.



No spare ECU here right now, I sent it off to Swift.



1. It could be, but I don't have anything to replace it with. It's so friggin hard to get to the ECU that I can't take out my 1.8 from MY car to swap in there, my back just can't handle sitting like that for more than a few minutes. I'll see if someone has a spare I can use, but when Cysco was having this same issue, he swapped the ECU and it still happened.

2. I will probably try to buy a new one today from Checker Auto, $57. The trouble shooting section hates me, but let me find my login and I'll give it a shot.

3. FORK YOU. I'll pick up a reader today for "rent".



Random had brought that up too, I'll try it this afternoon. Good idea.



I don't have any carb cleaner, but you think that Deep Creep would work? Don't see why not. I've got a can of it and I'll give that a shot or two too.



No.

It's all fine there, no CEL's or harsh running for well over a year.

I found this for stalling and will give it a rundown later.





SERVICE MANUAL
Applies to: Tiburon 1997
GROUP
Emissions Control System General