Alright new comparison, a Quad Throttle Body vs. an Upgraded Torque Converter. The benefits of both will help me a lot...driveability is not an issue for me, in Alaska straight-aways are the only things ever done...so that is not a problem. With the Quad Throttle Body and Haltech E6K I'm getting a great deal, cut away of around 500-600$ for a total of around $1,624.00. I already have my exhaust work done and ill have my heads ported/polished soon as well and I'll be getting Big Cams (Stage 2), FPR, and replacement Valve springs. Now the benefits of the Torque Converter is also a nice idea, faster acceleration, faster response, which is definately a problem in an automatic transmission. Claimed benefits of the Quad Throttle Body w/ complementary Modifications is around 50% hp. for a stock Tiburon thatd be 120 * .5 = 180whp. I havent dyno'd my car yet, but I'm guesstimating with my custom exhaust work and CAI i'm guessing its around 128-132, so what around 192-198...not bad for one more modification...in my situation which way would you guys lean toward? You know, without the need of actual driveability?

 

I say torque convertor smile.gif

pop it in all done.

quad thorttles are not road or emission legal. never will be.

Also, I belive cheuk has said they need to be retuned other couple weeks. and I think you have to turn your idles up to 2k.

 

as far as Emission, I'd switch out the quad with the stock when bringing it in (great huh?) just gotta hope i never get into an accident involving engine damage. As far as the idle, *shrugs* and also Random said that the tuning is the worst part however if you get it just right then it shouldn't be every other week, and if it is, i'll have the techs teach me how to tune it, and then just do it myself.

 

auto tibbies dyno out about 104 WHP.

So with your mods you looking at about 110-115. With the head/port work, and a set of headers, call it 125 or 130. With the 4TB setup, I'd call it a victory if you can get to 170 at the wheels on the automatic.

I'd also reccomend a Tranny cooler. Preferably with a tranny fluid gauge. If the tranny fluid starts to get too cold (spring/fall/winter) you can block off the tranny cooler with a peice of cardboard, but you need the gauge to let you know when it gets too cold.

 

Would you recommend a certain distributor of Tranny Coolers? And where could I get one? Gosh 104whp? Thats pathetic, LoL! So wait, do the upgraded Torque Converters free up a lot of a horsepower?

 

Isn't the quad throttle body extremely difficult to tune?

 

That's why you need the Haltec....

You can get tranny coolers from www.summitracing.com and www.jcwhitney.com. The upgraded Torque converter may help free up a few ponies, but I've now idea how many, as I've never seen a before/after dyno. In regards to WHAT brand of tranny cooler, ask Level10 for a reccomendation. They've got much more experience than I do with the various types/brands.

 

With the quad throttle body each cylinder will draw it's share of air from a different part of the chaotic airstream in the engine bay, even if we are now using injection running on a common shaft and return spring. As air enters the dam through your radiator fans for cooling purposes, heat builds up in the back of the engine bay as air pressure increases unevenly inside the bay. It will take a certain RPM depending on your settings for the engine to build enough negative draw through each of the trumpets to overcome the airstream cavitation in the engine bay and draw in more equal amounts of air. This is also one of the reasons why the check engine light may become evident, even at rest, especially when the radiator and A/c fans cut in. Thermodynamically speaking, there are differences in the engine bay's temperatures if you take readings from different sectors within the bay itself. One of the good points about having an intake plenium is that as air enters the TB it's cavitation is regulated by first the plenuim's main body and then further stabalized by the curve in the intake runners. The plenium also isolates the air against uneven bay temperatures and cavitation.

Uh, I seen somthing like this done with a quad TB setup to get the best of both worlds.

-An aluminium airbox is fabricated to fit around the trumpets, not mounting directly to the heads or anything else.
-The airbox is lined inside and out with thermal wrap.
-An intake track is run from the airbox to a majorly oversized cone filter behind the front bumper.
-A hood scoop is cut into the bonnet above the airbox to direct cooler air towards it to keep intake charge temperatures lower.

This setup was on a '98 Elantra and it's still somewhere around here.

 

Some cooler sold/made by LONG (other brands should have some to )have an internal bypass valve thta will prevent over cooling of the tranny fluid they cost more but are worth it

Denis

 

Deniss got a website? That sounds good.