The transmission swap went perfect, the car drives like a dream come true, drive real well since the swap in April. Waterpump was changed along with a bunch of tubing, radiator changed and is brand new. Alternator & battery 1 year old. NGK spark plugs are 1 year old, ignition wires also 1 year. I take good care of my car except not as good as it could be. That's why I got Jay-M's scantool to check everything but I have no laptop so I need your help!

-Idle is good when engine first starts. After a good bit of driving, it goes up to 2,000rpm and stays that way for no reason until you turn the car off and back on again. This has been going on since the automatic transmission too!

-Antifreeze container was 3/4 full so I topped it off. Next day after drive in the hot weather it spat out Antifreeze from a connector grommet next to the belts and even spat out a good portion from the container outlet! It also seemed like it was steaming.

-Radiator turns on much more than normal.

*PVC has never been changed, IAT sensor never changed, TPS never changed before.

Funny question I know, but with car running have you seen the WP belt running? Not too slack?

If not sounds like WP pump again or stat is stuck closed.....get'r fixed soon your cooking her thinkerg.gif

is the engine running hot? What was done within the 2 weeks prior to the antifreeze spewing? Have you checked your t-stat?

confirmation:
-- idle jitter has been going on since before tranny swap?
-- do you have an aftermarket TB?
-- what brand of TPS do you have?
-- sitting still, in neutral, you still idle at 2,000 ?

start car and wait to see how long until radiator fan kicks on. Immediately grab upper radiator hose and squeeze to see if fluid is flowing (hose will be very warm).

Take it to autozone and have them scan for CEL, see if any codes come up.
What did you do to the ECU for the tranny swap?

yeah today when i drove it to school there was definitely a belt noise coming from the waterpump area. that is surely it!

yeah majik, the idle thing went on for a few months with the automatic but it never went all the way up to 2000rpm, maybe 1200. then i had the swap. most of my Automatic trans idling was below normal especially when it got cold. now the 2000rpm idle is constant until you turn the car off.

i do not have an aftermarket throttle body, but I do have the airram installed. could it be a bad ground? I'll have some photos tomorrow. i'll have to check tomorrow what brand the TPS is. and a funny thing i can't tell engine temp because my gauges aren't working. i'm taking them back apart tomorrow. it sounds fruity but it's a long story.

One thing I've been afraid of is the intake pressure hose from the IAC valve. It's extended since the airram doesn't have a bracket for it. i got rid of the kink from some faucet pipe and barbed it tight so nothing leaks. I don't see why that would affect anything. It has never affected anything. The only code I have is P0455 which is the evap code (solenoid stuck) but that was caused by a kink in the temporary tube I had.

I'm just freaked out by the spouting antifreeze here from the container outlet but primarily from the hose next to the belts:
https://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g...problemsaf.jpg
left arrows are where the coolant burst out. circle is where the IAC valve hose is extended. (old pic, battery terminal isn't touching cold air intake)

why would it burst like that? i've heard of coolant popping out from the radiator, but a hose from way back there?

Majik, is it safe to test the battery voltage with just a regular voltmeter?
http://www.batterystuff.com/images/p...timeter_md.jpg
that too, might be the problem. but that has nothing to do with the waterpump.

You will be fine to check the battery with a regular volt meter

HK-zizzle, wuss the dizzle


dude, check the throttle cables, sometimes the may stick
along the same line check the butterfly. make sure its seating closed at idle.
also of course check the TPS with a voltmeter, shouldnt be too difficult

also, is the idle speed control valve making any funny noises, like ticking or buzzing, it could be bad.

I sucked up some water today, and now the idle speed control valve is ticking like a clock, and the idle is at about 700, so i know its shorted or still wet.

good luck dawg

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (HyundaiKitCoupe @ Sep 18 2007, 12:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>why would it burst like that? i've heard of coolant popping out from the radiator, but a hose from way back there?</div>

If the coolant starts to boil it will melt any plastic fittings or hoses.