Hopefully Not Crankwalk
Hey all,
I've had some strange idling issues for the last few months or so, and they seem to be getting worse. I did some searching on the site and through google and now I'm worried that it might be crankwalk. Reason being is I have all the same symptoms as listed in the few threads here:
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...;hl=crank++walk
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...p;hl=crank+walk
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...mp;#entry122264
Basically, when I press on the clutch, my rpm's drop pretty low (almost to the 500's) and the car shakes like crazy. This gets worse the longer it's driven. Well add to that the problem that using almost anything electrical compounds this problem causing the idle to stumble more. I pretty much cannot even turn on my a/c. Found a thread where some members were debating on whether or not using anything electrical and impacting your idle was normal.
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...dle++electrical
I've changed both the tps and IAC just to be certain and the problem still remains. I'm assuming that since I'm boosted and am using a stronger aftermarket pressure plate, that this eventually wore out a thrust bearing in the crank. I'm hoping this isn't the case, cause I'll have to get rid of her. I've already replaced the engine once, and I just don't have the time to do it again. I'm going to drop the oil pan and see if anything looks out of place.
Ok, a little bit more info (I was rushed typing the original post earlier this morning):
Pushing the clutch pedal in results in a clicking noise, as well as the idle dropping that I described. This really only seems to happen once the car has warmed up. I was wondering if increasing my idle to just shy of 1K would help with some of the dropping I'm experiencing. I know that if it does turn out to be crankwalk, this isn't a fix by any means, but I miss my a/c (gets friggin hawt here!!!). Sometimes, shifting will randomly be difficult, but once again, only after the car has had time to properly warm up. This is another arrow that's pointing me to crankwalk. Meh.
Oh and just so I can confirm this, you cannot adjust idle on the "weird" rd1's can you? I have one of the rev A's that has the little electrical connector on the throttle body instead of an idle screw.
Hopefully someone with experience can chime in here with some thoughts. Thanks guys
I've had some strange idling issues for the last few months or so, and they seem to be getting worse. I did some searching on the site and through google and now I'm worried that it might be crankwalk. Reason being is I have all the same symptoms as listed in the few threads here:
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...;hl=crank++walk
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...p;hl=crank+walk
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...mp;#entry122264
Basically, when I press on the clutch, my rpm's drop pretty low (almost to the 500's) and the car shakes like crazy. This gets worse the longer it's driven. Well add to that the problem that using almost anything electrical compounds this problem causing the idle to stumble more. I pretty much cannot even turn on my a/c. Found a thread where some members were debating on whether or not using anything electrical and impacting your idle was normal.
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...dle++electrical
I've changed both the tps and IAC just to be certain and the problem still remains. I'm assuming that since I'm boosted and am using a stronger aftermarket pressure plate, that this eventually wore out a thrust bearing in the crank. I'm hoping this isn't the case, cause I'll have to get rid of her. I've already replaced the engine once, and I just don't have the time to do it again. I'm going to drop the oil pan and see if anything looks out of place.
Ok, a little bit more info (I was rushed typing the original post earlier this morning):
Pushing the clutch pedal in results in a clicking noise, as well as the idle dropping that I described. This really only seems to happen once the car has warmed up. I was wondering if increasing my idle to just shy of 1K would help with some of the dropping I'm experiencing. I know that if it does turn out to be crankwalk, this isn't a fix by any means, but I miss my a/c (gets friggin hawt here!!!). Sometimes, shifting will randomly be difficult, but once again, only after the car has had time to properly warm up. This is another arrow that's pointing me to crankwalk. Meh.
Oh and just so I can confirm this, you cannot adjust idle on the "weird" rd1's can you? I have one of the rev A's that has the little electrical connector on the throttle body instead of an idle screw.
Hopefully someone with experience can chime in here with some thoughts. Thanks guys
Actually, I JUST had both the alternator and battery checked. Nothing there. Also checked all the ground wires too. So as far as I can tell, it isn't the charging/electrical system.
It just seems like whenever I put ANY sort of load on the main moving parts of the engine, like the alternator or a/c compressor, it just kills my rpms, if that makes sense.
It just seems like whenever I put ANY sort of load on the main moving parts of the engine, like the alternator or a/c compressor, it just kills my rpms, if that makes sense.
Super Moderator


Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,795
Likes: 5
From: Pflugerville, TX
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
If it doesn't do the same type of thing when you go up a steep hill, it's unlikely to be the engine. If it looks like an electrical system problem, smells like an electrical system problem . . .
Honestly, sounds like a clutch issue to me. AS far as the AC goes, my sisters AC compressor went out in her Focus. Not only did it make a really neat noise, it also produced an odd smell AND made the car bog down badly when it was turned on OR off! We took the belt off her AC compressor and the car works great now. You should try that as well. Your car may be shaking badly because its bogging so low that its trying to catch itself. Thats what my sisters car was doing before we took the AC belt off.
Thanks for the suggestion tibby. It's worth investigating. I've had a few people suggest that it's a clutch issue, but the clutch has less than a thousand miles on it and still grips like new.
Stocker, I'm a little confused by what you mean. I understand that if all signs point to an electrical issue, than that is what it more than likely is. I will continue to investigate that. The problem I'm having ONLY happens when the car is stopped and idling with the clutch pedal pressed. Otherwise, it runs like new, with my regular idle sitting right at 800, with no variations. That's why I'm thinking that the added pressure from the stronger clutch cover wore out a thrust bearing, and is pressing the crank over. Do you have any suggestions on how to properly diagnose this?
I'm thinking it probably is some sort of an electrical issue, as well as a clutch/transmission issue. It can't JUST be an electrical issue though or pushing in the clutch wouldn't make any difference in rpms right?
Thanks guys
Stocker, I'm a little confused by what you mean. I understand that if all signs point to an electrical issue, than that is what it more than likely is. I will continue to investigate that. The problem I'm having ONLY happens when the car is stopped and idling with the clutch pedal pressed. Otherwise, it runs like new, with my regular idle sitting right at 800, with no variations. That's why I'm thinking that the added pressure from the stronger clutch cover wore out a thrust bearing, and is pressing the crank over. Do you have any suggestions on how to properly diagnose this?
I'm thinking it probably is some sort of an electrical issue, as well as a clutch/transmission issue. It can't JUST be an electrical issue though or pushing in the clutch wouldn't make any difference in rpms right?
Thanks guys
Super Moderator


Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,795
Likes: 5
From: Pflugerville, TX
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
What happens when you push the clutch pedal?
cruise control kicks off
engine load suddenly drops
and???
What happens when the car warms up?
water pump starts delivering coolant after thermostat opens
oil thins out in the engine
and???
Did you put a code reader on it to see if there are any DTCs pending or CELs waiting to pop up?
Can you keep the car running by riding the gas pedal (not letting the throttle fully close)? Try a different throttle body without the little motor?
I know you said you already had it checked out, but it really sounds at least partially like your electrical can't keep up, so I say go to a different chain store and have them test your alt. and battery. Best bet is to fully charge the battery and let it sit while you take out the alternator, then drive them both to a store that can test them.
How do you know that the IAC and TPS you used to troubleshoot were working properly?
Maybe remove all the drive belts (including alternator and water pump) and see if the effect remains. You might have fun doing this, as you said the effect is worse with the car warmed up, so you'd be better served removing the drive belts with a hot engine. Also, with the water pump and alternator belts off, keep the run time to a minimum!
cruise control kicks off
engine load suddenly drops
and???
What happens when the car warms up?
water pump starts delivering coolant after thermostat opens
oil thins out in the engine
and???
Did you put a code reader on it to see if there are any DTCs pending or CELs waiting to pop up?
Can you keep the car running by riding the gas pedal (not letting the throttle fully close)? Try a different throttle body without the little motor?
I know you said you already had it checked out, but it really sounds at least partially like your electrical can't keep up, so I say go to a different chain store and have them test your alt. and battery. Best bet is to fully charge the battery and let it sit while you take out the alternator, then drive them both to a store that can test them.
How do you know that the IAC and TPS you used to troubleshoot were working properly?
Maybe remove all the drive belts (including alternator and water pump) and see if the effect remains. You might have fun doing this, as you said the effect is worse with the car warmed up, so you'd be better served removing the drive belts with a hot engine. Also, with the water pump and alternator belts off, keep the run time to a minimum!
I've had a DTC for a bad 2nd O2 sensor for awhile, but other than that nothing. I was under the impression that the second one is strictly for emissions purposes, correct? This is getting replaced either way, this weekend.
I have two beta throttle bodies, and believe it or not, they both have the electrical switch thing on them instead of the idle screw (annoying). It certainly couldn't hurt anything to get the battery/alt retested. I'm up for trying anything at this point. I really hate the idea of having to get rid of the car after all the money and work has gone into it.
I'm positive that the TPS I used was good (was OEM new in the box). The Idle air valve I swapped in for testing purposes was from the replacement engine, and was guaranteed to work, but that means essentially nothing. I'll check the IAC to check that it's up to hyundai spec to be certain on that as well.
Removing the drive belts is an awesome idea. I'm going to try that as well and see if that has any effect.
I'll post back with all the results.
Thanks for the help Stocker.
I have two beta throttle bodies, and believe it or not, they both have the electrical switch thing on them instead of the idle screw (annoying). It certainly couldn't hurt anything to get the battery/alt retested. I'm up for trying anything at this point. I really hate the idea of having to get rid of the car after all the money and work has gone into it.
I'm positive that the TPS I used was good (was OEM new in the box). The Idle air valve I swapped in for testing purposes was from the replacement engine, and was guaranteed to work, but that means essentially nothing. I'll check the IAC to check that it's up to hyundai spec to be certain on that as well.
Removing the drive belts is an awesome idea. I'm going to try that as well and see if that has any effect.
I'll post back with all the results.
Thanks for the help Stocker.
Super Moderator


Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,795
Likes: 5
From: Pflugerville, TX
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
Don't thank me yet, the fortune teller said the problem was indeed crankwalk and your engine asplode at 3:47 local time tomorrow! joke.gif
Replace the O2 sensor before you start throwing serious money at this other problem, if you can.
Be.
Sure!
to use an OEM HYUNDAI O2 sensor. Aftermarket ones, even big brand name ones, have a reputation for short lives on RD platform cars for unknown reasons.
If it were me, I would try rigging up a throttle screw in place of the electrical whatzit on one of those throttle bodies, even if only for testing purposes.
Getting rid of the car would be dumb. I know that sinking feeling you've got, having been there repeatedly myself. Take heart: these are simple machines with simple fixes, and usually CHEAP simple fixes if you diagnose them right.
Replace the O2 sensor before you start throwing serious money at this other problem, if you can.
Be.
Sure!
to use an OEM HYUNDAI O2 sensor. Aftermarket ones, even big brand name ones, have a reputation for short lives on RD platform cars for unknown reasons.
If it were me, I would try rigging up a throttle screw in place of the electrical whatzit on one of those throttle bodies, even if only for testing purposes.
Getting rid of the car would be dumb. I know that sinking feeling you've got, having been there repeatedly myself. Take heart: these are simple machines with simple fixes, and usually CHEAP simple fixes if you diagnose them right.
Well I finally caved and dropped the oil pan last night. Here's what I found:


These little buggers were just hangin out at the bottom of the oil pan. Oh well. I was worried about this for awhile. Shoulda checked it sooner. Anyways, just figured I should update this thread with my findings.
Thanks for the help anyways guys. And on a side note, look for a mighty crazy for sale thread soon! fing02.gif


These little buggers were just hangin out at the bottom of the oil pan. Oh well. I was worried about this for awhile. Shoulda checked it sooner. Anyways, just figured I should update this thread with my findings.
Thanks for the help anyways guys. And on a side note, look for a mighty crazy for sale thread soon! fing02.gif


