Hey guys, i went to the track yesterday and on my third run, (a possible 15.8) i blew the clutch going into third gear. I knew it was coming, the clutch was pretty shot to begin with. My question is, is do any of you guys have a DIY for a clutch instal, is it hard for our cars or should i just spend the 275 bucks to have my mechanic put it in??? I bougth the clutch for $151.00 US from Advance Auto, thank god im a manager there Haha those discounts help. But any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..thanks guys..

 

jack the car up, pull off the front tires, drain the gear oil, remove strut towers, pull out CV Axles, and drop the tranny. its that easy tongue.gif
Unbolt the pressureplate, remove disc. Put new disc against flywheel, insert alignment tool and bolt the pressureplate back on. and put all the crap back on your just took off. Drop the car back on the ground and bleed the clutch and fill the tranny back with new gear oil smile.gif

 

I found this not to long ago, if someone has a link to it that might work better, mods, if this is too long feel free to do what you will with it


Transmission removal and clutch installation guide 1/11/00
By: Chris Highet
M.Y.: 97-99 Possibly 2000 w/5 speed transmission
Car Worked on: 1998 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0L w/5 speed manual transmission.


Requirements:
Clutch Alignment tool
Pliers
Large Flat blade screwdriver
Large crowbar
10mm 12 point socket
12mm socket
15mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
1 1/4" Half inch drive socket
12mm box wrench
15mm box wrench
17mm box wrench
17mm 12 point Half inch drive socket (important)
19mm box wrench
1/4" wratchet
3/8" wrachet
1/2" wratchet
Half Inch drive torque wrench 10-200 ft/lbs.
2 Floorjacks
2 Hydraulic or scissor jacks (Hydraulic preferred)
2 Cinder blocks
A strong friend

Run Down:
For this FAQ I'm going to divide the process of removing the transmission and replacing the clutch into sections. Hopefully, this will make understanding easier. This tutorial is only meant to be a guide. These are the procedures I used. Most of which follow the directions of Hyundai's service manual. However, Hyundai DOES NOT endorse my procedures nor even know of them. I suggest you use these only as a guide. There may also be steps that I missed or vary from car to car. This job is only for the mechanically inclined or insane.

Section 1: REMOVING CLUTCH PISTON, SHIFTING CABLES, AND WIRING.
1: Unhook the negative terminal on the battery and lay a peice of thick cloth over the terminals to prevent arching.
2. Unplug the Reverse Gear sensor (reverse lights). It is located on top of the transmission near the rear tranny mount.
3. Disconnect the split ring holding the clutch release cylinder to the lever (release fork arm). Remove the clevis pin holding the two peices together. It is not neccesary to unhook the hydraulic lines. See picture below.
4. Unbolt the two 12mm bolts holding the release cylinder to the tranny case. Position the cylinder out of the way.

5. Near the rear passsenger side of the tranny is the shifting mechanism, where the cables connect to the transmission. Disconnect the snap rings holding both cables to their pivot points. If they are too tight to slide off use some silicon lubricant to loosen them up. Be careful not to let the black rubber bushings come out, as they are very difficult to get back in. Pop the snap clip holding the cable that is closest to the rear of the car with a large screwdriver.

6. The other cable should be mounted to a larger plate which is... in turn mounted to the tranny case. Getting to the snap clip on that cable is near impossible so it is easier to unbolt it from the the plate.
7. At this point, the shift cables should be free of the transmission. Near the rear of the transmission is the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). You'll need to unplug that. (blue connector)
8. Remove the drain bolt for the transmission and drain the tranny fluid.

Section 2: RAISING THE VEHICLE
1. When I did this removal I found the best place to raise the car and place it on jackstands was right near the area that the emergency scissor jack is to be placed. Behind that spot is a large flat area. Place a 3/4" peice of plywood between the scissor jack and the car and it will be quite sturdy and not stress the fram.
2. Be careful where you place the stands. It is possible to bend the frame of your car. The your fenders will bulge and your doors will not shut smoothly.
3. Remove the two front wheels.

Section 3: DISCONNECTING THE TIE RODS, AXLES, AND SWAY BAR LINKS
1. Remove the cotter pin that goes thru the tie rod (steering arm) end bolt.
2. Using a 15mm socket remove the nut.
3. Remove the tie rod form the hub. DO NOT hit the stud from the bottom with a hammer. Instead try tapping the part it mounts to with a hammer. Or using the pry bar, hook it on the edge and pry it off. Just be careful not to tear the rubber boot between them.
4. Remove the cotter pin keeping the axle nuts from spinning. Using the 1 1/4" socket remove the bolt. You'll need to keep the axle form spinning. Putting two lug nuts on and using the pry bar as a lever, you can jam the axle while you loosen it.
5. Remove the stabilizer link from the sway bar (below).

6. Remove the ball joint nut, using a 19mm box wrench. This is perhaps the most stubborn part to get loose. Again, use the pry bar to pry between the lower arm and the hub. Be careful not to break any seals or boots. Or.. you can go out and buy the "special tool" but it isn't really neccesary. NOTE: The part that has the rope knotted around it, is the tie rod.

7. With VERY gentle tapping from the hammer you should be able to slide the axle out of the hub.
8. Once the axle is free of the hub, you need to pull it out of the transmission. BE CAREFUL! Do not pull from the outside of the car, you'll stress the universal joints. You need to climb under the car to where the axle (drive shaft) enters the transmission. There is a Circlip holding the shaft in the transmission. Using the pry bar insert it no more than 7mm into the gap between the shaft and the transmission. Some gently prying and pulling from the end near the transmission will pop it out. If you didn't drain the tranny fluid you'll be sorry.

BELOW: Axle (Drive Shaft), Lower Control Arm, Tie Rod end
Section 3a: REMOVING THE STARTER
1. With one person under the car and another above, remove the 2 bolts holding the starter in place. They run from the bellhousing into the starter body. The person on the bottom needs to be ready to catch it if it drops out. The illustration below will give you a better idea of it's loaction

Section 4: REMOVING THE TRANSMISSION
1. Place a jack under the transmission with a peice of plywood between both of them. Put enough pressure on the bottom of the transmission so that the weight is off the rear tranny mount. Make sure you put the jack on a strong part of the case. See the illustration below for more details.
2. Remove the two top bell housing bolts as illustrated below.
3. Remove the four bolts holding the tranny mount to the driver's side fender from inside the fender. There will be rubber plugs covering the holes. If the bolts are excessively tight or begin to bind when you remove them you may have the tranny lifted too high or too low.
4. Now remove the long bolt that the mount swivels on. In order to remove it you may have to take the cover off your EGR valve and loosen its mounting bolts.
5. Remove the two upper bolts securing the tranny mount to the transmission case. See illustration below.

View of Transmission components from passenger side of car.

6. Place the second jack under the engine. The best spot I found was between the exhaust pipe and center member. Situated on the aluminium brace. It is imperative that the jack is secure as you'll be applying a great deal of torque when you remove the flywheel and reinstall it. You'll need enough upwards pressure to relive the weight from the engine mounts.


7. Remove the two bolts that are thru bolted thru the bellhousing mounts.
8. Remove the four bolts that hold the center member in place. Then set the center member aside.
9. Remove the bolt in the rear of the bellhousing that is just above the location for the axles. It runs from the passenger side and into the bellhousing.
10. Remove the three smaller bolts that are located along the bottom of the transmission. They are 15mm and go from the passenger side then into the bell housing. They are mounted thru the aluminium brace that your jack is most likely supporting. You do not need to remove the entire brace, just those three lower bolts.
11. There are two bolts left holding the bellhousing to the engine. Have a helper push on the transmission from the back to keep it from sliding out and falling on you.
12. Whoever the stronger man is, should be the one to lower the transmission onto the ground. You can lay on your back and use the two mounts to "bench press" the transmission out. Be careful not to break the reverse light plug when you pull outwards towards the driver's side fender.
13. When the tranny drops down you can lay it on your chest while your helper gets a better grip. I'd estimate the weight at about 100 pounds or slightly higher.
14. Put some clean rags or paper towels in the holes that the axles came out of, to prevent any dirt from entering the transmission.

Section 5: REMOVING THE PRESSURE PLATE, CLUTCH DISC, AND FLYWHEEL
1. When you pulled the tranny off the car the throwout(release) bearing should have stayed clipped inside the pressure plate. If re-using the pressure plate you'll want to remove the six mounting bolts 2 turns at a time. Try to keep from bending or flexing the plate. Otherwise, pop that sucker off with a pry bar. Just don't gouge the flywheel. NOTE: The illustration is very far from being drawn to scale.

2. Inspect the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces for signs of gouging, scoring, or heat glazing. Glazing (my definition)="A deformation in the color of the metal, such that it appears to have been super heated and then had water droplets splashed on it. It will be very smooth as compared to the rest of the surface"
3. If your flywheel displays any of these signs or damage you really need to have it resurfaced. Make sure the machine shop knows how to cut flywheels, and will remove the dowel pins and replace them when finished. The dowel pins make reinstallation much easier, and help to align the pressure plate. A flywheel that needs machining can turn a Stage 5 clutch into a Stage 1 clutch and make it chatter very bad. Not to mention void your clutch warranty.
4. If your presure plate is showing these signs I'm not sure what you can do. It may be possible to have the plate removed from the assembly and resurfaced, though I have never heard of it before. Otherwise, it's your decision.

Section 5a: REMOVING THE FLYWHEEL
1. Get out your 17mm 12 point half inch drive socket and mount it to a breaker bar. You noticed those funky bolts right? Who says Hyundai doesn't have a sense of humor? grrrrr....
2. Have a friend climb under the car and stik the end of the pry bar into the teeth of the flywheel, then prop it against a bolt or something to keep it from spinning. Don't worry next time around it's easier.
3. Now use the 17mm socket to remove the six mounting bolts for the flywheel. They're tight, around 100 ft/lbs.

Section 6: CLEANING AND RELUBING PARTS PRIOR TO INSTALLATION
1. Remove the shift fork from the tranny case and inspect the plastic bushings for wear.
2. Clean the contact points of the shift fork where it contacts the bearing's hooks.
3. Clean the splines of the axles where they enter the transmission.
4. Clean any heavy clutch residue from inside the tranny case. Silicone lubricant works very well for this. Don't saturate the tranny case, as later it may drip onto your flywheel or pressure plate.
5. Using a solvent wipe the pressure plate surface clean. DO NOT clean the clutch disc.
6. I used white lithium grease throughout my install.
7. Put grease on the shaft of the shift fork where it rotates in the bushings.
8. Put grease on the ends of the shift fork where it contacts the bearing.
9. Put grease on the inputshaft of the transmission that the bearing slides on. Be careful not to use too much as it can spin off and ruin your clutch disc.
10. Put grease on the splines of your axles where they meet the transmision.
11. Put grease on the pivot points for the shifting mechansim and the shift fork lever splines.
12. Inspect the rear main bearing seal for any oil leakage. Replace if neccesary.

Section 7: INSTALLING THE THROWOUT BEARING
1. Turn the shift fork so that the forks are not over top or below the input shaft.
2. Slide the bearing onto the shaft and align the two hooks on the bearing with the shift forks so that the forks are inside the bearing's hooks. When you turn the shift fork the bearing should slide in and out on the input shaft. This is what happens when you push on the clutch. Pushing the clutch pedal will pull the bearing towards the transmission.


Section 8: INSTALLING THE FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH DISC, AND PRESSURE PLATE
1. Put the flywheel onto the crankshaft and align the six bolt holes.
2. Put the six flywheel bolts in hand tight.
3. Work your way around the six bolts in a star pattern, gradually tightening each bolt more and more. The goal is to apply uniform presure to the flywheel.

4. Once the flywheel wants to start spinning have a friend insert the pry bar blade into the teeth of the flywheel from the front of the engine. You should be able to use the engine's head as a pivot point, to keep it from turning while you torque the flywheel bolts.
5. Torque the flywheel bolts to 90-96 ft/lbs.
6. Using your clutch alignment tool position the clutch disc and pressure plate as one unit. The clutch disc needs to be centered on the crankshaft. Align the pressure plate on the dowel pins.
7. The pressure plate may be a tight fit on the dowels pins, in which case get it on far enough to thread the bolts and gradually push it down going one turn at a time on each bolt. A rubber mallet helps sometimes too.
8. Once the pressure plate is on, torque the bolts to 11-16 ft/lbs. (I did mine to 20 ft/lbs.)

Section 9: REINSTALLING THE TRANSMISSION
1. Have a jack ready to support the rear of the transmission as you put it on.
2. Have the strongest person lye underneath the car ready to lift the transmission in place.
3. Have the other person lift from the front of the bellhousing and the rear and hand it to the other while still supporting the rear of the transmission.
4. If you're really lucky the splines will line up on the first try.
5. Otherwise, let the bellhousing rest on the pressure plate while the helper reaches in from the top of the engine compartment. Then, get the jack underneath the tranny.
6. With a bit of fenagling and twisting you'll be able to get the splines lined up with the clutch.
7. More than likely though you'll have to turn the bellhousing to get it to line up on the dowel pins.
8. Get as many bolts in as possible, but try to get the bellhousing flat against the engine without tightening the bolts to do it.
9. Once, the bellhousing is flush against the engine, tighten the bolts in a star pattern to 30-39 ft/lbs. I tightened mine a bit more than that.
10. Install the #2 tranny mount from inside the driver's fender well. Replace the rubber grommets
11. Install the center member and the bolts holding it to the bell housing.
12. Install the starter motor.

Section 10: FINISHING UP
1. Reinstall the CV joints by pushing them back into their splines. Make sure you put the right one its place.
2. Slide the CV joint end back through the wheel hub and start the axle nut, but do not tighten yet.
3. Reconnect the lower control arm, tie rod ends, and sway bar links. A little bit of grease on the threads will make future removal a peice of cake. Mkae sure you replace the sway bar link cotter pins.
4. Reconnect the shift cables to the transmission case.
5. Reconnect the release cylinder.
6. Plug in the Vehicl Speed Sensor and reverse light switch.
7. Tighten the axle nut to 200 ft/lbs. and install a new cotter pin through the hole.
8. Reinstall inatke tubing.
9. Install wheels.
10. Test drive.

Depending on what type of clutch you are installing, you may notice a slight jutter when releasing the clutch at low rpms. Most high grip clutches display this type of behavior.

 

its an easy install if you have all the tools .... dont forget the breaker bar and the 32mm socket to get the drive axles off the hub. that is the DIY clutch i had when i did mine. i also posted it in the DIY forum. but its just missing few steps like...

once the Clutch Release Cylinder is removed, remove the little flat lever that the CRC was connected too or the tranny wont come off.

and make sure you dont put the throw out bearing on the clutch cover disc. it goes on the tranny with the forks slipped into the slots.

when you bolt the tranny back on, the clutch pedal wont move because your gonna have to push that lever (the one that connects to the CRC) thats conneced to the fork to the bearin so it goes into the clutch cover disc.

you should do it on a day where you have nothing else to do since its the first time youll be doing this .... good luck

 

I agree with 01roller. good luck, personally though, I'm gonna get my car towed to my mechanic and pay him to do it, cause with me, when I go to fix one thing I end up breaking at least another.

 

yeah what supry said.. im just too lazy to type it all out wink1.gif

 

if u still want 2 know bout that stuff i have the workshop manual on cd, current version for the compleate hyundai range, got from work,

 

Oh My God.... I will read that as soon when I buy the Clutch......

It has all the details..... excellent info....

 

haha i think TiburonWao just had an orgasm

 

hmmmm can you burn and distro these for a small fee? im sure there are lots of us who would love to have it. Especially those doing engine swaps *ahem* and other projects