tdonnell

Hello everyone.

So today, I finally got around to going to my local JY and picking up a cylinder head - $50 bucks for the valve cover and everything underneath it. I plan on fully working this head. There is a shop not too far away that has a GREAT reputation for their port and polish work. And they have experience with mitsu heads. I am looking at going all out and getting all of the Ferrea hardware made for our heads. Springs, retainers, locks, spring locators, and oversized (1mm) valves. Then I will get them to do a NICE 4 or 5 angle valve job with their state of the art valve seat machine. Of course the important port and polish work will also be done, along with a nice head re-surfacing to ensure a perfectly flat mating surface. (Do you think I could get a little extra taken off the surface of the head to up my compression ratio a little, or would valve interference become an issue. Also, could the stock ECU handle the slight increase?)

I would also like to get some cams, but they are all so damn expensive! I suppose if I want 282's I will need a standalone (the haltech seems to be pretty popular for the rd right?).

Is there anywhere I could send my cams to get them re-ground?

I was just wondering what type of gains I would see with all of this work? I figure it will work with or without a turbo, but I would like to go NA and push the envelope for our cars in that respect. Would it be possible to run the stock internals to say 7500 or 8000 rpm? I am only suggesting it as with higher degree cams, the powerband will move to higher rpm. And is there any way I could get a piggyback to run this setup?

Thanks for any input guys. cool.gif

OdessitPashka

I like your thinking and you're definitely on the right path.

If you're going all out make sure you get good springs that can hold higher lift that will come with more agressive cams, get titanium retainers to lighten up the valvetrain, and make sure you get good quality parts.

Since you'll be going for 282's and doing lots of head work, you will have to get your car tuned properly for the combo. That's the only way to see real gains. So, you'll need something that can control fuel and timing, I think SMT6 will do the job well, or you could go with emanage (not too familiar with those).

Our redline is about 6500, so you should be able to move it about 1000rpms higher without any worries as long as your drivetrain components can hold up to the task. You will see for your own on a dyno where the redline should be moved by looking at the new curve.

Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes smile.gif

fonseca

I know this wouldn't compare to the kind of professional job your talking about, but I was about to start a thread on it. It seems fairly simple and should provide some benefit. I'm interested. I do plan to port my IM soon, and gasket match the TB.

brian01tib

I ported my own IM it takes forever like 4-5 hrs. IDK how much the port of the head will help Im guessing 6-15 NA yea big range thats just a guess dont quote it.

fonseca

^ Take any pics?

I have a brand spankin' new Rotozip that needs breaking in.

OdessitPashka

Keep it on topic fellas.

zoned019

Don't you think 272 degree would be better?
I'd contact mad_john, he had this setup on his tib with 272 cams for years before his beastly turbo setup was done.

renante

important.
camgears and pulleys
vernier or fidanza.

As they need to be adjusted continually to get the timing right.

tdonnell

Thanks for so many replies. I would be going with all Ferrea hardware (very nice stuff) for the head. I already have the SR pulleys and cam gear. Don't you think the 282 degree cams would yeild a bigger gain? Although 272 would probably be better for the street and a turbo setup.

I picked up the head out of a 99 accent, so it should work fine right? I am not sure if it is a 1.8 or 2.0 to make out which cams are in it, but it looks exactly the same as the head I have in my car so it would have to be a Beta 1 right? I know for a fact that it has hydraulic lifters and the head bolts were allen heads. Just wanted to make sure it would fit before I put all of this money into it LOL.

Does the smt6 adjust the maf (or map), o2, and ignition timing? I have an SAFC II right now, but I suppose to try and tune for maximum power with it would be a joke. And how does the smt do for non-WOT adjustments like idle. I read that the SAFC can't really do anything other than during WOT because of the o2 readings going to the ECU.

Oh yeah, about the redline. My car currently goes to 6750 rpm, and it is a 1.8L so it has the shorter stroke. What do you think the maximum safe redline would be? 7500? 8000 would be SICK. I am sure it could make power up that high seeing the massive increase in duration and lift. Although internal wear will be accelerated depending on how high I make it. Could I modify the redline with an smt6? If not, what could I use? I believe our car's rev limiter is a fuel cut correct?

Thanks again guys, and sorry for so many Q's. smile.gif

OdessitPashka

272s would definitely be more street friendly, but you'll get more power out of 282s.

I don't think head from accent will fit beta. Get one from a tib.

SMT6 can control timing map and fuel map at WOT and in between, though I'm not sure if it can raise the rev limiter.

Your red limiter should be raised to the point where you stop making power. You'll see it on a dyno.