This is my problem:

1. The car stumbles or bogs on take off from stand still.
Description: The car after 30 mins of driving normally will tend to bog or hesitate when trying to take off from standstill.
This problem only happens after driving the car for a while ~30mins.
I also notice that when the accelerator is feathered it will be less likely
to bog or stumble and if i full throttle it then it will bog more.
This bogging happens more on upway roads. Also on downhill but more severe on upway(When taking off in 1st gear).
This bogging goes away after the 2.5-3.0 RPM mark.
It only happens on low RPM's. Mostly on 1st gear.
When bogging i can smell fuel, also my friend driving behind me tells me Grey smoke when hammering the car and car not bogging.
I dont have issues on the highway. Did 210 KM no problem on a small stretch of empty highway.

2. I feel that engine power is low from idle to 2500 RPM
If i drive with my accelerator in constant position in 3rd gear i feel some more power coming from 2500RPM to 3000 RPM.
Its like i get a bit more power.. Its very slight more power. Can feel it more on upway.

3. After 30 mins of driving engine has a weird sound.
Its like sound of stones in the engine. I cant explain it. But my car becomes really shitty to drive after 30 mins.
Bogging on take off and gear changes are a little irritating and not smooth(Due to engine).
Is this knock?


I have changed the following...
Throttle sensor
Camshaft sensor
Crankshaft sensor
IAT(Idle speed Actuator)
Fuel Pump
Spark Plugs and Wires
Ignition coil
Engine has been overhauled recently. Changing piston rings and valve seals.

I have tried to explain as clearly as possible.
Now im all ears.
Please post a message if something is not clear.
Thanks

 

Had you performed any mods before this occurred? Sounds a little like the timing *might* be off, I'm kind of a noob at diagnosis though

 

Well the problem has been there since the engine was overhauled.
The timing is good.
I am getting a potentiometer.
Its a small sensor on the RH Shock mounting(held by a bracket)
Apparently you guys dont have this???
Anyways they control the CO with the potentiometer.
I already replaced it with a 2nd hand 1 and still same problem.

Other things that i still can replace:
1. FPR
2. PVC
3. Sensor in the air filter box

Can one of the mods please delete my other post.

Thanks!

 

im not sure what your problem is but the PCV only cost like 3 bucks you should have done that when you were doing spark plugs.

if i were you i would try to plug up a new ecu after you change those last sensors. REALLY what you need to do is this:

1. go to local repair shop
2. have them scan the ecu with a real time scanner (prolly charge you like 60-90)
3. after they tell you exactly whats going on take the car back home
4. fix what was wrong.
5. drive the tib happy again! cool.gif

 

opps put this is in the other thread

hm... what brand of TPS did you get? Kefico or Dae Sung?

it sounds like my car when before I changed the TPS

also could possibly be the clutch, your pressure plate might be going bad and isnt getting enough clamping load until higher gears, and my clutch is glazed over right now so as soon as it warms up the glaze becomes like a lubricant and causes the clutch to slip and bog so it could also be the clutch..

not sure what else it could be unless the rebuild was done improperly since it sounds like there are stones in the engine... that would be a bad sign

 

sounds like your having misfire issues....i would check the intake manifold gasket...is a common source for misfires...but again you need ot ahve the CEL's looked at.

has the CEL ever blinked?

 

And you needed a new thread for this why?

You need to check for a vacuum leak, and for the ECU wiring harness issue I've posted in the past.

 

Hey
Optimo- I did put on scan with no issues. The CEL Light on the Dash does not come on while driving.

Guys its not my TPS... I changed a new one out twice and its a KEFICO. And i doubt its the clutch.

There is no vaccumm leak Redz.

Ok. Now for some other things i noticed.
Im my 30Degree uphill (Steep) drive way i find that the car have no power..
Its almost like the engine wants to switch off and sputters but does go up.

The potentiometer i have it now. And it will be put on tomorrow.
The fuction of potentiometer is that there is a nob turned by a flat screwdriver that you turn to control the A/F ratio.
And this i possibly broken so the A/F ratio is wrong.
Dont you guys have this?
I think the plug something in exhaust to read the CO when tuning with the potentiometer.

Anyways just wanted let you know.
The car doesnt sputter as often now.
Thats a good thing.

 

it dosent matter if you have a CEL. you need a real time scanner (a for real scanner not a autozone deal) so you can look at the voltage signals from every sensor. you will be able to see if the algorithms are normal or if something is failing intermittently. i didnt have a CEL when i found out my crank sensor was bad. it was because i had a scanner that could look at voltage and signals.

this would also allow you to get a better idea of whats up with the wiring harness because you can see if any sensors are actually not responding and that could point to a wiring issue.

right now though fixing it is out of your hands till you have a professional look at it and tell you what to do. this cost money but is the quickest way to get your car back on the road.

 

^^^
I don't think they have Vato Zone in South Africa.

Otherwise Optimo is right, you need to scan your stuff live, or start going through part by part and doing the checks recommended by Hyundai to see which sensor is giving you a off reading.



Unkay, I'm going to ask one more time. If you don't give me a good reason, I'll close your thread and warn you. Why did you start up a new thread?

Now, just because you threw new TPS's at it doesn't mean it's not the TPS WIRING HARNESS. There are threads on this. The connectors can become dirty, corroded, or the harness pulled at such an angle that the wiring is damaged or the connectors are pulled out.

You said you don't have a vacuum leak, how did you check? Or DID you check? If not, you don't know at all if you have a vacuum leak, even by just checking the hoses. Hoses have characteristics that can make them leak ONLY at high vacuum, or at high temperatures when the hoses soften fully. Did you check then? No. Did you check with a bottle of propane/butane or with brake cleaner? No.

And for the last one, no, we still don't have the potentiometer, we have 2 O2 sensors that help determine our A/F ratio.