Exhaust clamps
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Washington D.C.
Vehicle: Hyundai Tiburon FX
^wow that's crazy, i ordered the same exact one from summit =) but it's the only one for us. i'm not sure of one thing.
see how it says "GVW (lbs)"? Gross Vehicle Weight. 4.250. our cars weigh 2,500. if i remember the correct cat should be close to the GVW rating/car weight and engine size. this has to do with the amount of exhaust flow and pressure. get something overrated and it blocks the flow and burns up the honeycomb. i'm not sure how to approximately check this.
seems like the engines under applications are 2.0 1998cc, all 1.8 - 2.3L so it must be good.
see how it says "GVW (lbs)"? Gross Vehicle Weight. 4.250. our cars weigh 2,500. if i remember the correct cat should be close to the GVW rating/car weight and engine size. this has to do with the amount of exhaust flow and pressure. get something overrated and it blocks the flow and burns up the honeycomb. i'm not sure how to approximately check this.
seems like the engines under applications are 2.0 1998cc, all 1.8 - 2.3L so it must be good.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Vancouver, WA
Vehicle: 2002 Accent 2.0L
So what you are saying is that the GVW should be as close as it can be to out cars GVW. With this said you can get any cat as long as it close, correct?
I was also looking at this one. It the same one with 2 o2 bungs. 2 02 bungs
I think the main reason to my cat going out is, i was running rich when i had my turbo on.
I was also looking at this one. It the same one with 2 o2 bungs. 2 02 bungs
I think the main reason to my cat going out is, i was running rich when i had my turbo on.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
If it has only one O2 sensor bung, the bung should be at the rear. If it has 2 O2 bungs and no flow direction indicator I am guessing that direction doesn't matter.
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QUOTE (HyundaiKitCoupe @ Sep 13 2009, 01:20 AM)
^wow that's crazy, i ordered the same exact one from summit =) but it's the only one for us. i'm not sure of one thing.
see how it says "GVW (lbs)"? Gross Vehicle Weight. 4.250. our cars weigh 2,500. if i remember the correct cat should be close to the GVW rating/car weight and engine size. this has to do with the amount of exhaust flow and pressure. get something overrated and it blocks the flow and burns up the honeycomb. i'm not sure how to approximately check this.
seems like the engines under applications are 2.0 1998cc, all 1.8 - 2.3L so it must be good.
see how it says "GVW (lbs)"? Gross Vehicle Weight. 4.250. our cars weigh 2,500. if i remember the correct cat should be close to the GVW rating/car weight and engine size. this has to do with the amount of exhaust flow and pressure. get something overrated and it blocks the flow and burns up the honeycomb. i'm not sure how to approximately check this.
seems like the engines under applications are 2.0 1998cc, all 1.8 - 2.3L so it must be good.
4,250 is the correct size. They don't come smaller, just larger. I believe the next size up is 6,500. Those are the one's that were causing CEL's.
Direction doesn't matter. You want the O2 sensor after the cat just because that's where it belongs. Has nothing to do with the construction of the cat itself.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Washington D.C.
Vehicle: Hyundai Tiburon FX
QUOTE
So what you are saying is that the GVW should be as close as it can be to out cars GVW. With this said you can get any cat as long as it close, correct?
correct. those are designated for the correct load.
QUOTE
4,250 is the correct size. They don't come smaller, just larger. I believe the next size up is 6,500. Those are the one's that were causing CEL's.
thanks cobra =)
QUOTE
I think the main reason to my cat going out is, i was running rich when i had my turbo on.
same here. i didn't have none of my O2 sensors connected from the start. it must be the case. yah if you have a "home made" exhaust without a rear bung, it's best to get these cats with the bung already in them. the flow arrow will always be there on every cat, and the bung should always be on the back end because the job of the rear sensor is to calculate the refined exhaust quality (air to exhaust mixture) readings.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Washington D.C.
Vehicle: Hyundai Tiburon FX
i'm thinking about ordering a stainless pair from summitracing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WL...6/?image=large
then i can hacksaw the rear section of the exhaust and throw the motoria resonator i have because my exhaust buzzes like crazy with the small stainless resonator i have now (only came in 25in).
any info on how it's holding up?
then i can hacksaw the rear section of the exhaust and throw the motoria resonator i have because my exhaust buzzes like crazy with the small stainless resonator i have now (only came in 25in).
any info on how it's holding up?
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From: Washington D.C.
Vehicle: Hyundai Tiburon FX
you could be right, however i'm not so sure about that. i thought the front sensor communicates with the rear sensor to determine a/f mixture. how can only one sensor do that?
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
The front sensor senses the exhaust and the computer corrects from that. Given a particular reading on the front O2 sensor it expects a particular reading from the rear. It's a pass-fail basically.


