Just because there is spark at the end of the plug wires, that doesn't mean it's of the right KV. To properly test this, you need to need to test your secondary ignition system with an automotive oscilloscope.

But since you probably don't have one of those (nor do I, so the 90 mile drive wouldn't be worth it this time laugh.gif ) you can do various troubleshooting procedures to test it.

1) Start with the power balance test. At the coil, remove the plug wires and place little pieces of vacuum tubing about 1" long between the coil and plug wire. Crank the engine and with a test light, place the probe near the corresponding cylinder's piece of tube. This grounds the spark to that cylinder. Which ever cylinder has the least effect of grounding is your problem. Now, you've already eliminated 2 things (Compression and plugs), so we only have to test the wires and coil pack.
2) Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of each plug wire. Each one should show >10K ohms per foot.
3) This last step is pretty much plug n' play. Since there isn't an oscilloscope nearby, you'd have to grab someone else's known good coil and try it on your car.


If this doesn't do it, then run some more seafoam, marvel mystery oil, Bar's stop leak, and in-tank fuel injector cleaner until there are so many other problems with the car you don't notice it anymore. (kidding, don't do that for the love of all that's good)

chairshot.gif We'll beat the s#it out of this thing if it takes all week!

 

I have a few oscillioscopes. Fluke, techtronix, hand held, full size, miniture, you name it. If you know exact values you're looking for, please explain. We have a wasted spark system in our cars. This means you only have to check 2 of them. As far as I can see both sparks are making the spark tester light up the same.



my resistance is good.


Does anyone know if the front o2 sensor is supposed to be variable or linear?

 

Generally when using the inductive probe on the oscilloscope, you'll have about a 12~18 KV spike, followed by a short trail (burn time) that's about 5 KV. Wasted spark is a little harder to check. There's a proper way to set it up, but I don't know off the top of my head how to do it. I'll grab the manual later and check it out.

BTW, what's your fuel pressure doing when you snap the throttle? (FPR)

 

I replaced my rear motor mount with a solid. My engine is loud as heck now inside my cab. I'm going to change it back. I got a video of what it sounds like, turn up the volume and you'll be able to hear it.

 

I did both mounts at the same time a few weeks ago, right after you posted about doing the windo-weld thing. I'll be honest too- I really didn't like the outcome. Like you said, loud as fv(K in the cab, rattles all to hell everywhere, steering wheel bounces all around, and it doesn't plant all that much better, but I started with good motor mounts to begin with.

I was thinking about getting a generic engine damper for a *cough*honda and retrofitting (rigging) it to fit in hopes it would ease the rattles and offer a better torque brace. Then I saw Redz' post and I think I'll just wait.

Any more info on the crappy-run?

 

^^ that's odd. I went from old motor mount, windo-welded, new, new windo-welded and solid. New windo-welded seemed to be the best. I have no complaints.

OK... Problem is still there.

I'm pretty sure my engine is completly clean now. I've run a can of seafoam in my oil for about 100 miles. I had the dealership perform an oil change with a hyundai oil filter and synthetic blend, as well as sat around and bullshitted with a tech for a while.

I've got a new front motor mount on order and am going to try combinations with my rear of solid, windo-welded and stock with my rear motor mount on tuesday. I will also be verifying my knock sensor. I am doing this to eliminate the possibility of the knock sensor retarding my timing. It could be retarded and retarding my timing for no reason.

I will not be changing out my fuel filter as I checked my maintenance logs and I changed it out just 25,000 miles ago. Hyundai recommends a 50,000 mile replacement. I was thinking it was 30,000 miles.

I will be checking my fuel injectors and Fpr once I get a chance to pull into the shop where I can play with unleaded fuel and spill it all over the floor if I want.

I'll try changing my o2 sensor to make sure it was not mislabeled when I bought it.

I've got surging at lower RPMs under heavy load, no vacuum leaks to be found, compression is good, engine air/oil circulation is good in all aspects. Shoot me some more ideas here.

 

Ok, today:
I cleaned out my 500 mile old PCV
Trimmed some excess hose from my breather which was causing oil vapor to pool up and get spewn into my intake
cleaned my pcv lines
cleaned my maf
cleaned my air filter
put some dielectric grease on my spark plug wires
replaced my front motor mount

I've cured most of the problem. The surging is gone!! I don't know how I had so many things go wrong with my car all at once,,

Now i'm just left with some harsh vibration until 1500RPM. At 1500RPM the vibration goes away. What could this be? This must be an easy fix. At idle it's not bad. It gets pretty bad when I hit the A/C, or put the car under any load but goes away when I get above 1500RPM.

What's the cure for low RPM under load vibration?

 

Today I changed out my solid rear motor mount with a poly filled aftermarket motor mount. It feels alot better. Before I went to a solid motor mount, I had assumed that my clutch was giving me the vibration. It is not. I'm quite sure it's my engine. The vibration is livable now, and not very noticable, but it's there.

If anyone has ANY idea whatsoever that could help me troubleshoot my vibration up to 1500 RPM please help. I need more ideas here!

 

Hey mate. Im glad your car is better. I think you have the same problem as me. I get vibration when i turn the aircon on, or demister on, or even highbeams. I have traced it back to earthing. I might be wrong, but get an earthing kit made up of 5-7 points with 4ga cable and make sure you silver solder the points. Also pick up some top notch battery terminals from scoshe or stinger... The reason why i new it was earthing is because when i had my aircon on and the radio was going(no amps)(separate earthing for hu) my interior light was flashing, the whole car would shake. Turn it off and will shake less, but it only shakes when somethings on. The car is supplied with the dodgiest terminals. It is such a pain in the a... It does dissapear when a certain number of revs is hit.

 

^^ Yeah! That's it!!!! My car does shake a bit more when I turn on the a/c or headlights.

As far as that goes:
I've got engine-> chassis and chassis-> battery with 2 awg wire, So my entire ground loop is GOOD!
I replaced the alternator a while ago, so it's not that
I've added a voltage stablizer
I have a capactior
I've got badass battery terminals with voltage readout, and it does not fluctuate much
I added a blue top battery with tons of cranking amps

Asside from increasing the alternator->battery cable, there's not much else which could be done to my electrical system to beef it up. It must be something else!

Anyone else have this problem?

Better yet, anyone else have a soloution?