Swapped the plugs today. I really should have checked them when I bought this car last year, but what can I say. I was told they were replaced at 60k miles. I think not, they had much more than 10K miles on them. The gap on this plug was .055.





Looks like some water got in there? And there's definitely some flash-over, due to the large gap I guess. I wonder if this explains the slight hesitation I would sometimes get when accelerating from a standstill.

The other three spark plugs looked normal, but were all around .050 gap.

Is the rust (I guess that's what it is) indicative of an engine problem? I think it must have been from moisture, but I don't know. It wiped off easily.

 

get new plugs and wires and check for rust again shortly.

man, that's bad....clean your engine.

 

god dam, water got in there and also when you get you a brush for a shotgun and clean that b**** out, when you done vacum it out to get all the metal chips out. then gap them new plugs. to .35 i know the book say 1.1mm its on you. imo i think the response is better with .35 the spark does not have to jump so far. then get you some dilicthe grease " grease for electrica purpouse" i can spell for shit to day.. and you are done.. did i for get anything my brother's

oh SHIT CAN them chaption plug drillsergeant.gif cool.gif
never buy them again never garbage
wink1.gif


Amen for NGK

 

if your getting wires go NGK,

not the 200 dollar Nology's

and plugs, might as well order NGk along with their wires (they have a good deal) but if not, almost any plug will do.

 

I actually bought NGK wires and plugs months ago. I wasn't planning on putting them in for another 5,000 miles, since I was told that the plugs were changed and only had 7,000 miles on them when I bought the car. Good thing I decided to check them.

It doesn't look like corrosion or rust got into the engine itself, just on that metal liner. Just changed my oil, no water or sediment seen, and no metal on the magnetic drain plug. I think it was a small amount of water that sat on stop of the plug, steaming up until it evaporated, and that's how the rust formed.

Patreezy, by clean my engine do you mean to use a fuel or oil additive? What do you recommend?

 

Chalky and large gap = overheated

http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark2.asp

 

Nice find there AC... That plug is definatly running lean.. now go find out why!

My carbed cars usually have their plugs Carbon fouled... which is a paint. to correct as it is getting harder to find parts for the Webber ADFA

 

I visited my mechanic yesterday, who was nice enough not to charge me for looking at it. He seemed dismissive of the flash-over possibility, and said they simply needed to have been changed sooner and the gap was much too large. And he told me never to install such "shite" in my car again. I was too humbled in front of onlookers to protest that I wouldn't install Walmart quality spark plugs myself.

My car seems to be slightly more responsive now as well.

*MERGED*

Hopefully this merges. . .

Here is a photo showing the really bad plug with another. The other three all looked like the bottom one. There are minor deposits on the electrode, and browning on the ceramic. The insulators are more greyish than white, with what looks like a little carbon around the electrodes.



I guess I could be running lean. No idea why. Could my air intake be affecting the air/fuel mixture negatively?

 

Don't worry too much about those plugs, who knows how much time they were on. Just check your new quality plugs after let's say 200 miles and then again after 500 to follow up for any malfunction... my guess is everything will be OK; your faulty plug looks much worse on the outside than on the inside.
Also add a bottle of injector cleaning additive to help eliminate any deposits that could be clogging injectors so you don't have any slight "leaning" on any cylinder.

 

Your car is runing very lean.... check what is happening... also check for blue little cracks on the wires.... if you seen them, you have to change it....