LOL, this is crazy. I just posted about this and Tibby01 has done a diy. Thanks alot, I hope this is the problem.

*DOUBLE POST YET AGAIN...*

I guess someone should mention that this DIY can't be done with captive rotors. The reason is because you have to have a machine to press the rotors off. I got two studs replaced today for $60+tax. Could have done it myself. Darn captive rotors. evil.gif

 

And I guess someone should tell Snoopdog01 AGAIN not to double post.

evil.gif

 

luigi3011...dont get on it a lot though.

 

if you are looking for longer wheel studs to run spacers look to ARP wheel studs. mitsubishi evo wheel studs are compatible with ours (just longer) part# 100-7717. might wanna post that somewhere in the diy, cause nobody will find it down here.

 

Freaken STUDS!! I went to every part store there is here in Sierra Vista Az. I also went to the dealer and they didnt have the freaken stud!! they had to order it for me. They told me it they would have it on thursday so I will be haveing to drive on three lugs for almost the whole week. blowup.gif

 

Steve, how much longer are they?

 

pretty damn long, i actually had to cut about 4-5 of the threads off the top so that i can get my lug tool in my lug nut. here are the actual specs per ARP knurl diameter .565, under head length 3", knurl length .270, nose length .350 (i believe thats an unthreaded section so it's easy to put on lugs), thread patten m12 x 1.5

if i remeber correctly the knurl diameter is a thousandth or so larger than the stock, which i personally believe is a good thing because the knurls are very close together making it hard to line up and god only knows what got dicked up during the removal of the stock stud. the knurl length is also longer which again i am a strong believer in because the stock stud's knrul length doesn't reach to the end of the hub. the head on the stud is just as beefy as stock. the threaded section is quite long (yet another plus), but i'm gonna recomend you choose a worthy open ended lug nut (tuner style so your rims don't get jacked). i'd pick one that is long so you have alot of threads to rely on. don't get the lugs that look like sockets for a wrench like i did, cause like me you'll have to cut a few threads off of the tip. the studs have some kinda plating on them to resist corrosion. supposed to have a tensile strength of 190,000 psi.

the downside, they're like $30-something for a pack of 5. not alot of fun to put in.

and that's all i have to say about that.

 

I have added this to hyundaipedia.



http://www.hyundaipedia.com/wiki/How...e_A_Wheel_Stud

 

Just noting that the wheel studs are different front/rear. So when ordering ARP studs, you only want them for the front.
The rears are longer and skinnier.

 

good to know, thanks for adding.