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Outlaw Engineering Phenolic Spacer Install

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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 12:17 PM
  #1  
REDZMAN's Avatar
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This link will let you download the following DIY. You might want to DL and print it up for future refrence. It is a word document, and is zipped.

[attachment=398:Outlaw_E...acer_DIY.zip]

Click on the below pictures to make them full sized. The Instuctions below are general, anyone with some mechanical experience can run through this whole install in maybe 2 to 3 hours. It took me almost 3 hours and that was with taking pictures and documenting the install.
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<span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%">Installing ThermoBlokTM Thermal Insulators on the
Hyundai Beta 1 4-Cyl 2.0L or 1.8L Engine (1996-2000 Elantra 1997-2001 Tiburon)
</span>

Installation of the insulators should take 4-6 hours and can be accomplished by the home mechanic with common tools.

KIT CONTENTS:

1. ThermoBlok lower intake manifold insulator (1)
2. Lower intake manifold insulator gaskets (2)
3. ThermoBlok throttle body insulator (1)
4. Throttle body insulator gaskets (2)
5. M8 intake manifold studs w/nuts, 35mm (9)
6. M8 throttle body studs w/nuts, 35mm (4)

Attachment 92

TOOL LIST:

1. Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
2. Needle nose pliers
3. Metric sockets, wrenches, and extensions
4. Putty knife (for scraping gasket surfaces)
5. Bench vise
6. Claw or magnetic pickup tool (handy for fishing out that dropped bolt)
7. Clean rags

PROCEDURE:

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable. Take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, it is recommended that you wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

Following is a step by step procedure for the ThermoBlok Insulator installation based on a �01 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0L. Other models may vary slightly:

<span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%"><u>Intake Manifold and Throttle Body Removal</u></span>

1. Disconnect the fuel pump. The fuel pump is located under the rear seat and can be accessed by pulling up on the front edge of the seat bottom. There is a plastic cover that must be removed and you will see two plugs. Unplug the one with the orange wire. Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. This is to relieve pressure in the fuel system.
Attachment 93 Attachment 94

2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-theft system, make sure you have the correct activation code before disconnecting the battery.

3. Unscrew the fuel filler cap to relieve pressure built up in the fuel tank.

4. Remove the intake air duct and air cleaner housing or aftermarket intake tube if installed.

5. Detach the throttle and cruise control cables from the throttle body. Remove the cables from the mounting brackets and place aside.

6. Remove the Throttle position sensor harness. This is easily done by pushing on the thin metal bar and pulling on the harness connector.
Attachment 95Attachment 96

7. Clearly label and detach any vacuum lines and electrical connectors that will interfere with the removal of the manifold.

8. Remove the Throttle Body from the Intake manifold by removing the 4 12MM nuts attaching it to the intake manifold flange. Set aside in a clean area.
[attachment=162:attachment]

9. Remove the two coolant lines to the throttle body and clamp or plug them with a bolt to minimize coolant loss.

10. Remove the fuel rail output hose from the metal tube near your throttle body flange with a pair of needle nose pliers on the spring clamp. When removing the hose be prepared for a small amount of gasoline to spill. You can see the spring clamp in the bottom center of this picture.
[attachment=163:attachment]

11. Remove the two 10MM bolts holding the fuel supply tube onto the fuel rail. These bolts are shown in the center of the above picture. Carefully pull on the metal flange and be prepared for approximately one cup of gasoline to pour out of the fuel rail once it is clear. Dispose of collected fuel appropriately.
[attachment=164:attachment]Attachment 97

12. Remove the two fuel rail mounting bolts (14MM) from the manifold runners and carefully pull the fuel rail and attached injectors from the intake manifold. Route the fuel rail/injector assembly to the passenger side of the engine bay and secure so it doesn�t fall back in the way (Intake manifold shown removed for clarity).
[attachment=166:attachment]Attachment 98

13. Remove four 14MM bolts holding the intake manifold support brace to the intake manifold and the lower block. This can be very difficult to accomplish and could require some spray lubricant on the thread area. Two bolts are at the top and two are at the bottom. The passenger side upper bolt is shown in the above center section of the below picture. After all four bolts are removed, the brace will come free.
[attachment=168:attachment][attachment=169:attachment]

14. Remove the four upper and five lower nuts holding the intake manifold in place.

15. Remove the intake manifold and set aside in a clear area.
[attachment=170:attachment][attachment=171:attachment]

<span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%"><u>Intake Manifold and Throttle Body Thermoblok Insulator Installation</u></span>

1. Leaving the factory installed gasket in place to protect the machined surfaces during stud replacement, Remove the four studs from the Throttle Body flange and the nine studs from the engine head. This is done by threading two nuts onto the stud, then tightening the nuts together using two wrenches. Once the nuts are sufficiently jammed together, you can screw the stud out. This procedure goes fast with a 12MM open end wrench and a 12MM Socket combination. Make sure you use the factory nuts for this procedure as they may get damaged during the process. Use the newly supplied nuts only for final installation of the manifold and throttle body.
[attachment=172:attachment][attachment=173:attachment]

2. Once all studs are removed, clean the gasket sealing surfaces, being careful to keep foreign material from entering the intake ports. Take this opportunity to clean some of the deposits from inside the intake ports.

3. Install the included studs with the same method used to remove the factory ones. Do this using the short threaded portion into the cylinder head. Do not torque the studs into the cylinder head, simply screw them down until they bottom and remove the nuts.
[attachment=174:attachment][attachment=175:attachment]

4. Repeat for all four throttle body studs and all nine cylinder head studs.
Attachment 99Attachment 98

5. Test fit the ThermoBlok Insulator with supplied gaskets, one on each side of the Insulator. Test fit on both the intake manifold and the throttle body. Then test fit them on the replacement studs you just installed. The ThermoBlok Insulator is designed to match the slightly larger ports in the cylinder head.
Attachment 99Attachment 100

6. Carefully place the intake manifold into position and substitute the supplied nuts for the factory ones you used earlier.

7. Torque the manifold nuts down in two steps to 11-14 lb-ft (23-30 N*m). Do not over torque or you run the risk of stripping the aluminum threads in your cylinder heads.

8. Some owners choose not to re-install the intake manifold support braces as a means to save weight and increase thermal insulation of the manifold.

9. Installation of all other components is the reverse of removal. When mounting the fuel rail/injector assembly, take caution not to damage the fuel injector o-rings or the fuel supply assembly o-ring. Torque the fuel rail supply tube assembly two 10MM bolts to 3-4.4 lb-ft (4-6 N*m).

10. During assembly, the throttle and cruise control cable length will need to be adjusted. This can be done by placing adjusting the double lock nuts on the cable at the bracket. Beta series engines should idle at 850 to 1000 RPM�s, so adjust accordingly.
[attachment=178:attachment][attachment=179:attachment]

<span style="font-size:12pt;line-height:100%">OPTIONAL THROTTLE BODY COOLANT BYPASS FOR RACING APPLICATIONS:</span>
If desired, route the coolant lines that run to the throttle body in a loop. This is easily done by removing one of the coolant hoses and bending the remaining one to the opposite tube. This will help keep the manifold area and throttle body even cooler.

NOTE: In very cold climates, it is possible that removing the coolant flow from the throttle body will cause it to ice up during extended high speeds. This will be made evident by power loss during driving that returns to normal following a short period at idle. If this occurs, reattach the hoses in the factory installed manner to the throttle body. The throttle body ThermoBlok insulator will still help to prevent the additional heat from traveling to the intake manifold.

<span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%"><u>Final Installation Notes</u></span>

1. Top off the cooling system as necessary.

2. Ensure all vacuum hoses are installed to the correct connections and that all spring clamps are correctly in place.

3. Ensure all removed items that were to be re-installed are in place.

4. Account for your tools and spare parts, ensure none were accidentally dropped inside the manifold, throttle body, or cylinder head.

5. Once assembly is complete and the above items are checked, start the car. Listen and look for vacuum or fuel leaks, and go for a ride. If your engine runs poorly or the idle is erratic, check and double-check all vacuum lines and electrical connections to ensure that they are properly installed. The most common problems after installation are vacuum leaks do to unattached, broken, or reversed vacuum lines. Also double-check to see that the throttle is completely closed at idle and adjust idle screw on throttle body or throttle/cruise control cables as necessary.

6. Following a few days of operation, it may be necessary to re-torque the intake manifold and throttle body fasteners. Carefully do this using the same procedure as shown in the installation steps.

7. It is recommended that a separator type filter be placed in the PCV line that runs to the manifold. This will help separate oil out of the gasses that are fed back into the intake manifold and will serve to keep the interior of the manifold clean of oily deposits.


Outlaw Engineering continually strives to increase the quality of its products and the accuracy of the installation instructions contained herein. Comments and feedback are always welcome.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 01:00 PM
  #2  
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I didnt disconnect the fuel pump and battery and my throtle body worked the same with the cruise control and all with out adjusting it. This would be a good time to bore your IM and TB or install an Airram while youre in there.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 07:45 PM
  #3  
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Last night I disconnected the plug with the orange wire at the fuel pump and my car ran for 3 minutes. So, I turned it off stumped to high heaven. Then I turned the car back on and let it run for 5 min and still no stalling then again for 3 min. So, I disconnected the other plug and it stalled immediately. I do believe you have the wrong wire to disconnect REDZ. I ended up not finishing because I got lazy while waiting for the car to cool off again, but I'll come back to it on saturday and put of me pics of me car then.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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I dunno, that's the one I unplugged and the car stalled out in like 30 seconds.
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 09:09 AM
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REDZ...

is there anyway you can post back they pics...my spacers should be here this week and i want to knock it out before it gets cold again here VA
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 11:53 AM
  #6  
REDZMAN's Avatar
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Yes.

I'll actually post up the DIY again in .zip format, please PM me tomorrow to remind me. I just used it in an english class again.

LOL

It's perfect now.


Anyways, the broken pics piss me off, I'll have to put them up in photobucket and I'm sure it'll take an hour or more to get them all in the right places.
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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alright thanks man
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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REDZMAN's Avatar
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Fixed word file.

Tiburonmoo, let me know if the photos are not in my personal photobucket account for you to update.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 10:22 PM
  #9  
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Bump for pictures again. I'm hoping to do this shortly and would love to have the pics back up.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 10:44 PM
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Oy, this is one I thought I did. Grr... I'm sure REDZ has it in his album. I'm sure I saw it in there so I'll relink them tonight.
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