I threw this into java's post but I figured everyone who would be installing or thinknig about installing a kit would definately see it if it was its own thread... anyways here goes...

DICLAIMER: USE THIS ONLY AS A SUPPLEMENT TO THE INSTRUCTIONS IN YOUR NITROUS KIT MANUAL. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU ARE RETARDED AND SET THIS UP WRONG AND YOUR ENGINE BLOWS UP

ok with that said here goes..
There are several main components to a nitrous system. The solenoids, the relay, the WOT (wide open throttle) switch, the bottle, and the arming switch.

What I would recommend is setting up the delivery system (solenoids and bottle) and then do the electrical side (arming switch, relay and WOT switch).

the solenoids are easy to install. Find a nice place where they will securely mount and wont be hit with anything that may rattle.

That is the fuel solenoid because if you notice its wires and fittings are colored red. Fuel will ALWAYS be red.


I chose to mount my nitrous solenoid on my transmission mount in a spot where my stock airbox bolted down to. Its inverted because if mounted the other way the lines would not have ran properly and the CAI as you see above it may move around and hit the solenoid.
Notice in the background of the pic is the "T" connector where the fuel is "T"ed off. If you drive a RD tiburon thats where you want to "T" you fuel off. And run that line to your fuel solenoid obviously. If you didnt know that ran to the fuel solenoid quit reading this and take your car to a shop to get the kit installed wink1.gif
Also you may want to go to a autoparts store and get new clamps for the "T" connector because the ones that come with the NX kit are JUNK! Tighten those bad boys down as much as you can to prevent fuel leakage.

With the solenoids mounted, you should complete the second part of installing the delivery system. The bottle can be mounted wherever you want. Just dont put the brackets on backways. The bottle should always be tilted upward due to the way the nozzle on the bottle is fed through a tube that touches the bottoem of the bottle (like the nozzle on your armor all is fed). The upward tilt allows the liquid in the bottle to always be at the base of the tube until the liquid is completely empty.

The third part of the delivery system is the shark nozzle. I would recommend getting a piece of metal tubing and using that to replace the part between the MAF and the TB because that is where the nozzle will be installed. If you have an RD tiburon then you can get the BOMZ CAI (Injen CAI knockoff) off of ebay for $60 shipped or so and there is a direct replacement for that piece. If you drive a different type of hyundai well.. you'll have to customize it if you wish to replace that piece. When installing the shark nozzle put it on the flattest surface of the tubing as possible to make more of an air tight seal. Drill a hole and put nozzle adapter (little black O with threads) on the tubing and then silicone around it to make it air tight. Do NOT put it too high on the tubing because your hood wont shut.. and then you just ruined that piece and it will have to be replaced.



And this is a BIG NO NO NO NO NO!



The final part of the delivery system are the lines. Like I said before fuel is red and NO2 is blue. The fittings on these lines should go with the appropriate solenoid. Before you run the lines put a piece of tape over the end to keep dirt and dust from entering the lines because whatever is in those lines will eventually run through your solenoids and possibly into your engine and could cause damage. Also when running lines make suer you dont have any sharp turns or kinks in the line because its just like when you were a kid and kinked the garden hose the water stopped coming out. If the fuel line gets kinked you could run lean and *BOOM* and if you kink the NO2 line you are going to run rich. With that said Run the long braided line with the blue fitting to your bottle from the nitrous solenoid.
There are two ways you can do this. The first was is through the cars firewall and under the carpet or sills by the door just as you would power wire for an amp. This is the way i chose to do it to hopefully prevent damage or corrosion to the line.
The second way is running the line outside the car. This can be accomplished by drilling a hole in the floor of your car and running the line along the bottom of the car and up the engine bay. I chose not to do this way because of moving parts in the engine bay such as pulleys, transaxles etc... and due to the change it could corrode or get damaged by road debris.
Now install the shorter lines between the solenoid and the shark nozzle. When running these lines do two things. Make sure observe where the input and the output of the solenoids are and run them property. The output should run to the shark nozzlea nd the input should run to either the Fuel "T" if its the fuel (red) solenoid or the bottle if its the NO2 (blue) solenoid.
When tightening down lines make sure you use line wrenches.. you need two sizes i belive you need a 7/16" and a 9/16". Do NOT use regular or adjustable wrenches because they will damage the fitting.

Ok so you are almost there.. time to do the electrical work.
First thing I would do is mount the WOT. DO NOT rig it up so its always activated. It came in the kit for a reason. To protect you and your car. Use it properly.

if you do that and your car breaks and you come on here for help you WILL get flamed for being stupid.

Here is how it should be properly mounted.


It should be similiar to that but the easiest way to do it is mount it to the top bolt of the throttle body that is closest to the firewall. Then bend it at a 90 degree angle and have a friend inside the car put the pedal to the WOT posision and adjust the switch so it is activated. The part striking the switch should be the place part that moves and pulls the throttle cable.

Next install the arming switch. Here is where I chose to put it.


When installing this swich find a ground and a 12v source that ONLY comes on when the ignition is on. I found both in the plug that plugs into the cigarette lighter assembly. Then run another wire through the firewall to the WOT switch.

So the last part of the electrical system is the relay. Find a nice secure place to mount the relay. Remember it needs to be close to a ground because the wire that goes to a ground is only so long. RD tiburons you can mount it where I mounted it.

If you look to the upper left corner of the picture there is a bolt. That bolt is a good ground to use.

Now everything should be mounted, nitrous and fuel delivery lines ran. So all you need to do is take care of the wiring. I couldnt get the diagram out of the NX manual on the internet so I found another one and modified it so it looked similiar.


In this next section wire colors on the relay only pertain to NX Kit #20923 if you have a different kit the wire colors may be different

When installing your arming switch you already ran the wire for that through the firewall and to the WOT switch. Now you need to connect the Red wire off of the relay to the other terminal of the WOT swich.
Next connect the white wire of the relay to ground.
The green wire should go to the + lines to each solenoid. The hardware to do this is included in the kit.
Last the black wire on the relay goes to +12v which i connected to the battery. Which is ironic because normally in electronics black wires are for ground.

Ok now that your relay is all wired up all you have to do is ground your solenoids. Just put the proper terminals on them and find something to ground them to. I mounted my solenoids so I could ground them to the negative terminal on the battery.
If you connect something to a battery terminal it should look clean and secure like this.


AND NOT LIKE THIS


Ok so now everything sould be hooked up. Now check to see if BOTH solenoids work. To accomplish this turn just the ignition on (not the whole engine) so power is on. Then set the arming switch on.

******************** DO NOT OPEN YOUR BOTTLE****************
then activate the WOT switch while touching a solenoid with your hand and see if you can feel it move. then do that with the other one. If they both move then thats good. If not check your wiring and try again.

So the test is good... so you're ALMOST ready to spray. Last test is to check for a leak at the fuel "T". Turn the engine one and let it run and watch there the fuel "T" was installed. If it stays nice and dry then you're good to go. If not tighten the clamps down more.

Ok so you're ready to spray. Well almost. Dont forget to put your jets in your nozzle. Use the chart that came with your kit and make sure you put the right number jet into its designated spot in the shark nozzle.
You should start with a 35 shot, then 50 and then go 75 if you feel lucky. But if you know you are going to spray use high octane fuel and maybe some octane boost if you are going to be running it hard. Especially with a 75 shot. Also id recommend getting a GS-T fuel pump from an eclipse you can get them for about $25 shipped at
www.dsmtrader.com. Id also recommend a nitrous gauge and a bottle heater.

Remember this post is NOT a substitute for the manual that comes with your kit. Make sure you read that first and then come here if you need further specification.
Also dont hesitate to post questions on here. Im sure Jaws021, JonGTR or myself will be able to help you out. But if you are unsure DONT do it and check here first smile.gif
Good luck

 

Very nice dweet. only thing, the wiring diagram is messed up. and you should have put this in the DIY section wink.gif

someone will move it.

 

I'll move this, no idea why it's here.

Nice writeup, you got any of the sizes of tools needed and such?

Also, with that solenoid mounted there, where is the acceleration sensor?

 

the only tools you really need are some line wrenches.... they are SAE but I cant remember exactley what sizes. I just remember the one for the bottle is bigger than the one for the solenoids. I havent had my nitrous on my car for a long time now. I sold it back in December I think.
oh yeah I fixed the wiring diagram link

 

Just been flipping through random pages and noticed none of the pics on this thread work. Anyone have them saved?

 

Not me. I'm trying to do that from now on though, hence the RDT Photobucket account.

I checked these, and they are moved from the site posted.

 

I'll do a DIY on my kit when it's installed.