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Ok, it's no where near spring, but I want to get my products together soon. For those who don't know, I'm a daily driver who takes my car to car shows. I figured I'll go on through my list on how I clean my car and get it ready for shows, then you guys can chime in and tell me what you use. This way we can all learn something. I cannot afford to pay people to detail my car before every show, so I've learned a few tricks and formed my own oppinions. I would like to get some of your opinions and tricks too.
<span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">Exterior:</span> http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f1...100_2347-1.jpg Remove all the old wax and buildups. I start by spraying off the car with a hose, then washing it using a bucket with dawn dish soap and warm water. Never agitate the bucket, this kicks up the dirt from the bottom. Instead, just dip your sponge into the top of the bucket, then wring it out a few times. Wash the car in the general direction in which the wind will hit it. This means go from front to back and back to front. Try to picture your hand going back and forth in the same lines the wind would hit your car at 60 MPH on the high way. This way you put less lines non-natural lines on your car. It prevents dirt from scratching the paint in new directions. Different directions of scratches look bad. Spray off the car with a hose when you are done. When you dry the car, use only a clean microfiber towel. Rub the towel in the direction the wind will flow. It's impossible to do in some spots, but try to do it as much as you can, because drying is the part where the most dirt will be ground into your paint with no water to act as lubricant. The very next thing you should do after removing the wax with dish soap is put on more wax, unless you're going to clay bar, polish, use swirl remover or any other on-paint product. It's not a good idea to leave the paint exposed for very long because it starts oxidizing the minute water leaves the surface. It's also not a good idea to try to use touch-up paint on top of wax. Clay bar: After dish soap, I use clay bar. I do not really have a brand of clay bar to recommend. I've only used Mothers Clay Bar kit. One thing I was sure of though, I threw away the carnuba wax which came with it so that I could use my own wax which I prefer. They provide that to remind you to wax your car immediately. You only need about 1/4 of the bar, save the rest for later. You use clay bar as though it were an eraser for small bits of dirt on your paint. You can feel it actually grabbing stuff off the paint, it feels like you hit a rough spot all the sudden. Keep the surface lightly oiled with the instant detailer they provide you, and fold the clay in half every once in a while to expose a new side to make sure you're not putting new scratches in the paint. Just move it across the car back and forth in the same direction which the wind would travel. Spray off the car with a hose when you are done. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...R7L_AA280_.jpg Oxidation removal: Only use this stuff if your paint is starting to look crummy after a good wash and clay bar, or the clear coat is deteriorating. If you're using this, it's because you really need a paint job, but you can't afford it. This will bring back a faded paint job and at least make it shiny. You spread it on with a rag, rub it into the paint in a circular motion, then rub it off with another towel. Another use I've found is to buff it in after you wash, then spray it off. It's a much lighter abrasiveness to the paint this way and it really polishes well, but in no way is it as good as using polishing compound. Alternately, if you've just painted a surface, after 3 days, use this stuff. It will remove eggshell and leave a smooth surface. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...1_front200.jpg Touch-up and color sanding: At this point, I use my Hyundai Cobalt Blue touch up paint pen. I clean the area really well with a little bit of isopropyl rubbing alcohol, then I push against a piece of paper until the paint flows, then touch it to the car wherever I want to have more paint. I then wait 5-10 minutes and do the same with the clear coat side. I love these Hyundai paint pens. They kick butt. To flatten the area after using touch-up paint, you can use some 1500 grit sand paper and water to wet sand the area, spray off the area, then clean off the sanding scratches very lightly with rubbing compound. It takes a few hours before the clear coat is dry enough to do this. Try to keep the sanding and rubbing to a minimal area as it will damage surrounding paint. To color sand, just touch a bit of paint to the area wait 15 minutes, then use some 1500-2000 grit sand paper and water, spray off the area, then use rubbing compound to clean up the sanding marks. *note- professional help is advised with color-sanding or touchup http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f..._Paint_Pen.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...bNaked/200.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...Naked/sand.jpg Polishing: Sometimes it's needed, sometimes it's not. I do not feel comfortable using any abrasive polishes on my paint on a regular basis. I may use one every few years. When I do, it's only because the paint has either dulled or there is some minor scratches in the paint. I use Turtle wax polishing compound. It will remove scratches, and also leave your car shiny as heck. It can damage paint lightly though. Use it sparingly. You put it on with a rag in a circular patter, then buff it off in a circular patter, preferably with a microfiber towel. You may permanently stain your microfiber towel during this. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...rtlewaxcan.jpg Prepairing for wax: Before you wax the car, you want to make sure the surface is ready. Walk around the car and use scratchx as needed. it will remove swirls, fill in scratches and generally leave the paint looking better then before. It's great for spot corrections before you wax. Just spread it on with a paper towel, and rub it in a circle, and keep rubbing it in small circles until it fades away into your paint. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...uct_G10307.jpg Waxing: After removing all your old wax, you need to put on a good base coat of wax. For starters, at the beginning of winter I use some Turtle wax F21 nothing else. This stuff is advertised to last 1 year. I only use it for 6 months during winter time so that I don't have to worry about my paint as much because the paint won't stay as nice in the winter time as it does in the summer. You put it on with a rag and buff it off with a clean microfiber towel. It will take a lot of work to get it to shine, but do it, because once you're done, the shine lasts a LONG time. It takes alot to get this stuff off of your paint. So when it comes time to remove it, go an extra time or two with the dawn dish soap. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...4566379524.jpg For summer time I like to start off with a good THICK paste wax. I like Meguire's Tech Wax paste. There's a lot of different paste waxes out there. I like this stuff. The car looks good with just the wax on it. You put it on with the provided applicator, rub it around in a circular pattern over the whole car, wait 15 minutes, then buff it off with a microfiber towel. It will leave your car shiny as heck. Use it repeatedly to build up a wax layer to protect your paint, but wait about 30 minutes between applications. I'd use it twice, maybe 3 times, but I do it by hand so I cannot repeat this all day long. On the last application make sure the way your towel goes is with the direction of the wind for uniformity purposes. This will make sure the lines in the wax left by the microfiber towel are traveling the same direction. When your towel goes over wax it will polarize it. You will notice it when you look at the sun gleaming off of your car. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...uct_g12711.gif Removing the white oxidation from window trim: Window trim turns white naturally while driving. In order to keep it black, I like to use silicone lube. Silicone lube will remove oxidation and leave a protective coating on plastics and rubber. It's some good stuff and it does not leave a nasty buildup Don't get it on the paint because it will also remove the wax. If you get it on the paint, you can generally just rub it in and be fine, but you may end up touching up the wax along the edges. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/silicone.jpg After car wash waxing: Now for the layer of wax we want to build and loose every time we go to the car wash. I like to use meguires spray wax. It goes on easily. It rubs to a shine easily. It makes a very nice shine over the top of the wax. It seals in the paste wax and makes it last longer. It makes washing easier. Put this stuff on right after you use paste wax and every time you visit the car wash. You just spray it on the car and then rub it in until it looks shiny. Follow the direction of wind flow. That simple. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...G-12824_LG.jpg Weekly washing: I go to a car wash. I don't have resources to bring out a hose every time. NEVER USE A BUBBLE BRUSH except for your wheel wells. Never use car wash wax. Personally, I never use the 3 colors of foam because I have no clue what is in that stuff. Just bring your car into a non-leaking bay, use tire cleaner on your tires and wheel wells, use soap on the outside of the car, rinse, then spot-free rinse, then pull the car out and dry it off with a microfiber towel in the direction of wind flow. When cleaning the rims, use a wheel brush to aid the cleaner in doing it's job, not the bubble brush. It will make sure your rims are clean and not scratched. Daily cleaning: Spray some speed detailer on the car and wipe it off in the direction of wind flow. I like meguires speed detailer. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...YZL_AA280_.jpg Before a car show: Ice is a great product line, but its effects do not last. It's an oil that goes on top of your paint. It collects dust though so be careful. Right after a car wash and speed detailer, I'll use some of this on-site at a car show. You just put it on with the provided applicator and wipe it off in the direction of wind flow. You must use ICE speed detailer to keep it clean. ICE looks great right after use, but does not last for a week nor does it last a trip through the car wash. After using ICE you should apply some meguires speed detailer to remove it and then spray wax. If you are trying to maintain your ICE shine, then use ICE speed detailer as you would meguires speed detailer. Spray it on, wipe it off in the direction of wind flow. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ed/ice_wax.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ed/3003lwq.gif Headlights, corner lights, tail lights: I use plast-x. It removes dings from the surface as well as restores clarity. You just put some on, wait for it to haze over, then rub it off and polish to a nice shine. Some people have said using 0000 steel wool first removes oxidation and prepares the surface for a nice shine. I've never done this, so I cannot comment on it. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f.../Plastxbig.jpg <span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">Interior cleaning:</span> http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f1...000_0283-1.jpg Generally, I use 409 on all surfaces. I use Windex on all glass. I also use LOTS of paper towels. Then before a show I'll use armor-all protectant to get the shine out of the pleather on the dashboard and steering wheel. Armor-all collects dust, so I don't use it all the time. If you see a loose thread, cut off as much as you can, then use a lighter to melt it. The last little bit of it will melt, then you mash it with your finger. If there's an area looking somewhat frayed, you can use a razor to remove fuzz from a surface. If there's discoloration on a black surface, you can use a magic marker to color it back in. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ked/windex.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f..._All_Purpo.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...7_front200.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/armorall.jpg vacuuming: I put the vacuum in my right hand and a brush in my left. I'll scrub everything before I vacuum it up. It helps to agitate dirt out of the carpet and seat fibers. Trust me on the brush. It's the best way to get things clean. Shampoo cleaning: You can rent a shampoo cleaner for about $50 a day. Or, you can use some carpet shampoo and a wet/dry shop vac with a brush. Either way, you'll end up with clean carpets. I get a bucket full of hot water, then add some carpet shampoo. I'll splatter some on the area to be cleaned, agitate it in, then suck it back out while agitating. Don't sit on your seats while the shampoo is drying or you'll mush the fibers down and it will make the seats look old and the carpet too wherever your feet touch. Make sure you vacuum before you shampoo because if you shampoo first, it makes mud which will stay in your carpet and not come up. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...aked/7in1x.jpg All painted surfaces: After cleaning, you can use some spray tech wax to bring out the gloss. Interior is not as important as exterior because it's not subjected to the weather. <span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">Engine bay:</span> http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/100_2579.jpg For a good starting point, if you have no painted surfaces, you can use an engine degreaser of your choice at your favorite auto-parts store. Otherwise you'll be like me, cleaning everything by hand. Engine cleaners come in a tall arisol can. I use silicone lube, 409 and simple green for general cleaning of my engine bay. Some do not like silicone lube. I swear by it. It leaves everything shiny and clean. I spray it on a surface which needs to be cleaned, then I'll wipe it off. It works well. use it on metal, hoses, plastic, anything which needs to be cleaned. Use a big nylon brush to get large areas like the front of the engine or the MAF sensor. Use a toothbrush to get into hard to reach nooks like the grooves on the front of the engine or the corners of the MAF sensor. Be thorough. Engine bay cleaning is a topic of it's own. http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20998 A note on silicone lube, Don't just spray it on everything. Most silicone lubricants contain an acid chemical which eats away corrosion and loosens dirt before they become just silicone. Sometimes it takes a minute for the chemical to evaporate, so depending on the situation use it immediately, or spray it on your rag and then wait before using it on paint or a surface which is questionable. Basically, test in an inconspicuous location. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/silicone.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ked/simple.jpg Chrome: A lot of chrome polishes are out there. I like Nevr-Dull. It's a good product and I'm familiar with it because of my military experience. We use nevr-dull to polish our brass on our uniforms. It works good. The product itself is it's own applicator. It's a bunch of cotton which you just rip off and start rubbing on your chrome. Once you rub it on, you rub it back off with a paper towel, or if you decided you want to throw away your microfiber towel, use that. Either way, this stuff works and will leave your chrome shiny. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f..._AA280_gif.jpg Painted surfaces: For high temp paint, you can use rubbing compound and polishing compound to make them shine. I wouldn't try waxing. Hoses: Use silicone lube and a rag to clean any oxidation from the surface. The silicone lube will then act as a protectant to keep them black. At a car show I'll wipe down the hoses with armor-all. It leaves them surprisingly shiny. It collects dust though. Aluminum: Any bare aluminum can benefeit from 0-0000 steel wool. The intake manifold will clean pretty well with just silicone lube, but to make it shine I've found some 0 grit steel wool removes some of the bumps from the manifold, then 00 removes some of the gouges from the 0 grit steel wool and 0000 grit steel wool will polish the aluminum to a high shine. You can follow steel woll up with some Nevr-Dull metal cleaner. The thing about steel woll is that it removes such a small ammount of metal that you won't see it working, but it's noticable if you take a before and after pic. It takes alot of elbow grease to make an improvement. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...aked/steel.jpg <span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">Wheels:</span> http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f1...100_2361-1.jpg rims: I'm not going to tell you what to use on your rims. Every rim is different. There's tons of different products out there meant for different surfaces. Check the labeling and check with the manufacturer. You need something which will leave them looking good and remove all the brake dust. I have not found any spray on/spray off soloution which does not work well, or benefeit from additional scrubbing. Tires and wheel well: I like armor-all extreme tire shine. It works well to remove dirt and dust. It also works very well on the wheel wells. One thing to pay attention to though. Do not get this on pavement. It will leave a quarter moon shape there for a year. Set a rag on the ground by the tire before you spray it to make sure you don't mess up the pavement. Spray this up in your wheel wells and all over the sidewalls of the tire. This product collects dust. If you're at a car show, use a brush to remove all of the rocks, dust, and dirt from the tread of your tires, then spray this onto the tread for that clean as the day the tires were bought look. People will ask if you ever drive the car and be amazed when you say every day. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ed/8509440.jpg All of these products can be obtained at Advanced Auto Parts, AutoZone, Walmart, and NAPA. You may have to do some searching, but they are there. On a side note, for car shows, I never use any product which collects dust until I get to the show and my car has stopped moving. These are the products which I use. Most of them, I carry around in my car in a water-proof bag in my trunk daily. |
VERY good DIY, DTN!
Although, I prefer some stuff than what you use...I do use the Meguire's NXT, and the Mother's clay bar kit, but looks like to me, you got it goin' on! I almost washed my car today, but i'll do that tomorrow. |
Sweet!! Now i know how to clean my car and what products to use!! w00t!!
Edit: Have a question though... what's silicon lube? I've been trying to find it havent been able to locate it. I would like to check it out to clean my engine bay. Thanks. |
d0od, look into buying a Bissel little green clean machine for a personal shampooer. I've had one for at least ten years now and its paid for itself at least 100x over.
whats great about it is you don't have to use the shampoo the offer, i use simple green all the time and carpets come out super clean. not to mention the fact that you are left with a minty smell in your car afterwards. one thing I have used for tire cleaning is wesley's tire white. its made to turn white walls super white, but it really sucks the dirt out of the rubber with minimal brushing and not to mention its dirt cheap for as much as you get. |
For the rims, i find that standard clothes washing detergent like omo is great. I have used this on many rims, and it gets rid of all the brake dust and crap and doesn't eat the finish away because it isn't acid based. Honestly u should try it
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^^ this is the stuff I use. Just spray it on, you can use a rim brush to make it more effective if you like, then spray it off. Some people have chrome rims and powder coating, i don't know anything about those rims. I decided to leave it open for people to decide what to use. I havn't found anything which is OMG great. I might try detergent though.
https://i236.photobucket.com/albums/...eelcleaner.jpg <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (RedShark_TiBuRoN @ Dec 17 2007, 12:59 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>VERY good DIY, DTN! Although, I prefer some stuff than what you use...I do use the Meguire's NXT, and the Mother's clay bar kit, but looks like to me, you got it goin' on! I almost washed my car today, but i'll do that tomorrow.</div> Thanks! What do you use? It just rained here today after weeks with no rain, so I'll be cleaning my car tomorrow too. <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (LNHeart @ Dec 17 2007, 01:33 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Have a question though... what's silicon lube? I've been trying to find it havent been able to locate it. I would like to check it out to clean my engine bay. Thanks.</div> I updated the pictures and linked to the engine cleaning topic. <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (UrS0NvS @ Dec 17 2007, 04:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>d0od, look into buying a Bissel little green clean machine for a personal shampooer. I've had one for at least ten years now and its paid for itself at least 100x over. whats great about it is you don't have to use the shampoo the offer, i use simple green all the time and carpets come out super clean. not to mention the fact that you are left with a minty smell in your car afterwards. one thing I have used for tire cleaning is wesley's tire white. its made to turn white walls super white, but it really sucks the dirt out of the rubber with minimal brushing and not to mention its dirt cheap for as much as you get.</div> Unfortunately I live in a very small Army barracks room. I don't have space for a shampooer. I know they're not big, but it's either that, or my vacuum cleaner. I need my vacuum cleaner. I can get ahold of a wet/dry shop vac when needed though. Good tip on the simple green. I may just try it if my carpets or seats get really bad. The Carpet shampoo I use is a 7-in-1 formula with carpet conditioner in it too, so I would definately want to use it for a final coat Where do you get the weasley's? |
^^^good ole wally world for wesley's.big spray bottle for dirt cheap. i guess you don't get one of those comfy army barracks like they SAY you get on that army video eh?
here is a link anyways for other people for the bissel machine, its really tiny. little green clean machine |
^^ It's comfy, I just have alot of other stuff I need. That really IS tiny though. Any idea on how many watts it takes? If it's less then 300, i could power it from my power inverter under the driver's seat. That might be a worth-while thing to buy so that I can spend less in the future. Can you find watts or volt-amps or amps anywhere on it?
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Cool thread. Good work man. Some questions about the touch up pen's. How much are they? I'm guessing you get them at the dealership, and in your opinion do they have any problems or anything bad about them like the paint goops up or anything? In ever knew hyundai made those.
Instead of posting again: Sweet. Thanks man. I gotta go get me some of those...I think the previous owner was a girl or just always had their key's out because the door handle itself has some deep ass scratches from a nail or a key. |
^^ Yeah, you can get them from the dealer for about $10-$15 a piece. There is no problems except having a steady hand to use them. They are great for touch up. Make sure you keep them capped so you can continue to use them. I have 2 just in case.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DrivingTibNaked @ Dec 17 2007, 11:25 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Can you find watts or volt-amps or amps anywhere on it?</div>
couldn't find anything about power output on the owner's manual and i no longer have the box, sorry. |
for the tires use meguires tire foam
i've used all kinds of spray shines and comparing to foam, they mean nothing, the shine just sprays on and comes off pretty easily, with the foam it actually eats the dirt away from the actual rubber and leaves them insanily clean for a very long time, i've had the foam last abit over a month with countless amount of car washs and a couple rain storms, the spray...? give it a car wash or a dirty day and its gone |
^^ what is the difference between Meguires and Armorall tire foam?
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Added: cleaning black plastic/rubber window trim & color sanding in conjunction with touchup paint.
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I've been doing some research on commercially available car wash liquids from meguires as I generally use meguires products.
1. Gold class - costs more because of "conditioners" added to wash. Good general purpose wax 2. Crystal - Deep cleaning, designed for show cars. 3. NXT - newest, made to work with the meguires NXT series. I'm not sure of the difference between them or what to make of NXT car wash soap. Does anyone have any input on that? I waxed my car with 2 layers of NXT 2.0 paste wax. Meguires says there is no difference between their NXT 2.0 liquid wax and their NXT 2.0 paste wax. I grabbed paste because I trust it more. Apparently they both provide the same protection and durration. The NXT 2.0 series does not have a NXT 2.0 Booster Wax. I'm left wondering if the booster wax from 1.0 should be used or if the new "ultimate detailer" spray should be used in place of it? |
Couple things:
NEVER use armor all for the interior! It causes your windows to fog up much easier, and doesn't leave you with a full time shine. I always use products from a company called Black Magic (A.Z. and Advance always carry it). Most their products are silicone based, and leave an amazing shine For the interior parts, use their protectant (also comes in wipes): http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...2L._SS500_.jpg Spray on your paper towel, wipe/rub it on, let it sit while you do the rest of the car, then come back and wipe it all off. It adds an extra layer of protectant and stays on muuuch longer than armor all. No limit as to how many times you use it. I used it once before doing one of my interior photo shoots, and it was so shiny it messed up my lighting really bad. Also never use windex, it always leaves streaks, no matter what the bottle says about being streak free. I use something called invisible glass (AZ and advance also carry it, get the aerosol version, not the spray bottle): http://www.invisibleglass.com/media/...IG-Trio-03.jpg www.invisibleglass.com/ Spray it on, rub it in, then use a dry microfiber cloth to rub it off. They really do mean invisible, it's completely streak free and perfectly clear. I've found it also reduces on fogging up (but only if you don't use armor all), and it's safe to use on tint. Use it both inside and outside. I also use a product called Aquapel on the outside of the windshield. Basically it's a way better product than RainX. It does an amazing job of keeping your windshield clear of water, and it lasts forever too. Usually RainX lasts for a couple weeks, or until you use your wipers. I put mine on at Christmas and it still wicks rain as well as when I put it on. And I've used my wipers a lot, washed it, power washed it, gotten it dirty with salt and sand spray, and it still lasts. The stuff is so good, I never use my wipers during a downpour (occasionally I do when it's just misting, but never in a full rain). I have the $4 special wipers, and fortunately don't ever really need to use them (they're already squeaking and bumping...). And when it's dark out, you can't see the rain on your windshield at all. It just blows right off and the little that is on your windshield is completely invisible (unless there's other outside lights). Amazing product, I'd never use anything else. A bit pricey, but it lasts forever, and is highly worthwhile. https://www.tirerack.com/images/acce...um/aquapel.jpg Aquapel site RainX vs. Aquapel comparison Tire shine: Black Magic makes a really good product, but it's kinda hard to apply... Looks amazing, lasts a long time. Car wax: I've used the Black Magic carnauba stuff once, and being silicone based, it's really hard to apply and get the shine to come out, but once you do, it is amazing! Clay bar: Definitely one of the most worthwhile products! After newly cleaning and waxing my brother's car, it still had sort of a bumpy feeling to it rather than that smooth just-waxed feeling. So the next time we waxed it, I used the clay bar, and wow what a difference! It was perfectly smooth, and really had that nice feeling. I think I used the Mother's, and have used the clar bar at least 2-3 times (just half) so I'll get around 6 uses out of it. |
Good tip on the black magic! I'm going to try it out when I run out of Armor-all
I know for a fact that not all interior shine formulas are the same. Armor-all is my current favorite. I dont' have a problem with fogging windows. I know that when I was in Texas, my windows used to fog all the time because of the high heat and humidity coupled with the quick change of temperature in the early mornings. I don't have that problem in South Carolina. I recently tried some of the no-name stuff at advanced. I think it was Advanced auto parts protectant brand. It sucks. Do not use Advanced auto brands. It made it shiney, but not black in the slightest. It's like it didn't get into the material, just put a residue on top of the pleather on the dashboard. It didn't hide any scuffs or anything. Just made them shine so they were more noticable. I'm seriously going to give away the 2-for-1 deal I got on the advanced crap. As for the invisible glass, I'm not a fan of it at all. I have to clean up my car well before a show, because I smoke (yes, I'm a smoker) in my car. I've got some of the Invisible glass right now and I don't like it one bit. I have to wipe the window down a bunch of times and even then, it seems to just push the residue into the corners and leave it. It does not clean very well, but it does leave a streak free shine. Windex cleans very well though. I only have to wipe 2 times to get every bit up. I perfer windex. Try some rain-x 2-in-1. I've found it actually cleans AND shines the windshield. It works pretty well. I havn't used it much, but it seems to be a great option. You can just spray it on a dirty windshield, rub it in, and wipe it off. https://i236.photobucket.com/albums/...aked/rainx.jpg I like foaming tire shines. They tend to clean and shine. Usually you just spray on and walk away. I just recently tried this tire shine NXT insane shine. It seems to be a really good product. It does not clean the tire, but it makes it real black and real shiney. https://i236.photobucket.com/albums/...ked/insane.jpg You're right on with the clay bar. Definately use clay bar every once in a while. I don't really like carnuba waxes. I'm stuck on urethane for winter and the NXT series for the summer. NXT is kind of one of those apply and then maintain waxes. Carnubas is apply, then apply again. The NXT series can be applied then maintained with other products until you get lazy for while, then you have to re-apply it. |
One thing I would recommend is finding a glass cleaner that does not have ammonia in it as it CAN fog up certain kinds of window tint film over time.
also a good idea is to have 2 buckets for washing, one with soap and water one with just water... rinse out the sponge in the bucket with just water to keep your soap bucket free of dirt and debris |
I haven't looked here in some time, but the fogging isn't from Armor All. I use the thick ass GEL armor all stuff, and my stuff never fogs, not even in the humid times of the year, or in humid areas.
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Redz, you live in one of the least humid states in the country, so it's probably different for those of us in more humid areas.
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*RE READ MY POST CAJ*
LOL Humid areas like... 1. Kansas. 2. Alabama 3. Georgia 4. Colorado (yes, they get very humid) Haven't had those problems in any of them. |
Hey, i forgot to mention this... For the entire year, last year, either Liquid wrench stopped making it, or the local auto parts stores stopped carying Liquid Wrench Silicone Spray. After a whole year, advanced started selling this badass stuff again! Liquid Wrench Silicone Spray! It dosn't have as much of a acidic effect on paint and it leaves everything shiney and black again! Get it while Advanced Auto parts still has it. It's back on the shelves now.
It's good stuff for the engine bay, and any black plastic/window trim on the vehicle. https://i236.photobucket.com/albums/...Naked/lube.jpg |
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (StrikeEagle @ Mar 3 2008, 01:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>https://www.tirerack.com/images/acce...um/aquapel.jpg</div>
100% AGREE, this stuff is amazing. I bought a 6 pack of them from a distributor in the US because I couldn't find it here in Canada. I'll put it on any vehicle that I'll ever own. For everything else. I use the entire NXT line, well except for the glass. Gunk made an amazing foaming glass cleaner. I got a bottle of some kind of sealer from my boss. We use it all on all the company Cadillacs (Funeral Home), and this stuff is awesome. It says right on the bottle "Automotive, Boats, Aeronautical Use". Anything that can be used on a plane is good enough for my Tib. lmao.gif Oh, and if you're too cheap to buy glass cleaner, or to help save your window tint, you'd be amazed at how well a damp chamois and a paper towel can clean a window.... |
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (kcvortex @ Mar 4 2008, 05:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>One thing I would recommend is finding a glass cleaner that does not have ammonia in it as it CAN fog up certain kinds of window tint film over time.</div>
I'm glad someone mentioned this. I haven't taken the time to read this thread carefully yet, but ammonia can and will cause discoloration of your window tint. Ever see that nasty tint that's faded to purple? Ammonia will cause that... and it doesn't take much either. If you're going to use 409 or Windex, make sure it doesn't have ammonia in it. If it does, it's fine to use on the outside, but don't let it touch the tint. I'm always trying new "tire wet" type products to get the black shiny look to stay. I put some on the Mustang a few days ago, and even after our rain storms and parking it outside all day in the rain, they still look nice and black. I'll get the exact product info tonight and post it (if I remember) |
^^ When I went to remove the window tint on my other car to have it redone (faded to purple), they suggested that I use Windex and a razorblade. The ammonia in the Windex will help to break down the glue. I use it all the time to remove vinyl as well.
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Also use the NXT. but i would say never use the dish soap it will daul the finish over time.also use the armer all ultra shine and never had my windows never fog up. live in indiana near lake michigan.
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Used armor all for the first time in about a month yesterday and last night i worked so that car was out and it fogged up terribly after usin armor all. I had to scrape the frost off the inside it was so bad.
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One thing I have been getting used to doing on windows is NOT using paper towel. Instead I use newspaper. It looks a whole lot better for some reason. Picked that up from the owner of the shop I work at. Try it out.
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I use the Mr Clean Auto Dry Car Wash- it seems to be doing a nice job... then I waxed my car using Turtle Wax, but next time I wax it I'm going to use Liquid Glass instead. My father used to have a '74 Vette and he only used Liquid glass. According to him, after you put it on, let it bake on for awhile, and then buff it in... after 5 different applications (different days of course haha say once a week?) it becomes a super-strong clear coat on your car- My dad said once he had a cat jump on the hood of his car (lived in Queens at the time)... the cat let it's nails out, and slid across the entire hood- left not a scratch. laugh.gif
I'm also a fan of Meguiars anything... they're a very good company. laugh.gif |
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Bump!
It's that time of year. It's spring! Get your cars clean. I want to see general showroom blow up with phat clean Tibs. Quick tip, for a really black dashboard, clean it with 409 before you use black magic or armor-all. It makes a big difference. Plus the armor-all works like a wax after that to keep it clean. |
One of the best Diy's on the site, thanks again DTN.
Just read it again before the pre winter car wash hail.gif |
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mauricio @ Mar 30 2008, 03:34 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>What about this:
http://es.youtube.com/watch?v=8gqbMqCua-w notworthy.gif</div> Thats how I always clean my car. tongue.gif Even in the middle of winter i go out in my bathing suit and do it the same way. |
^ Lol, the song in that video is romanian haha
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I love your car so much, that is a sexual piece of machinery. If i had the money I would do everything to mine that you've done. You get those paint pens from the dealership right?
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (DTN @ Dec 16 2007, 11:38 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Ok, it's no where near spring, but I want to get my products together soon. For those who don't know, I'm a daily driver who takes my car to car shows. I figured I'll go on through my list on how I clean my car and get it ready for shows, then you guys can chime in and tell me what you use. This way we can all learn something. I cannot afford to pay people to detail my car before every show, so I've learned a few tricks and formed my own oppinions. I would like to get some of your opinions and tricks too. <span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">Exterior:</span> http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f1...100_2347-1.jpg Remove all the old wax and buildups. I start by spraying off the car with a hose, then washing it using a bucket with dawn dish soap and warm water. Never agitate the bucket, this kicks up the dirt from the bottom. Instead, just dip your sponge into the top of the bucket, then wring it out a few times. Wash the car in the general direction in which the wind will hit it. This means go from front to back and back to front. Try to picture your hand going back and forth in the same lines the wind would hit your car at 60 MPH on the high way. This way you put less lines non-natural lines on your car. It prevents dirt from scratching the paint in new directions. Different directions of scratches look bad. Spray off the car with a hose when you are done. When you dry the car, use only a clean microfiber towel. Rub the towel in the direction the wind will flow. It's impossible to do in some spots, but try to do it as much as you can, because drying is the part where the most dirt will be ground into your paint with no water to act as lubricant. The very next thing you should do after removing the wax with dish soap is put on more wax, unless you're going to clay bar, polish, use swirl remover or any other on-paint product. It's not a good idea to leave the paint exposed for very long because it starts oxidizing the minute water leaves the surface. It's also not a good idea to try to use touch-up paint on top of wax. Clay bar: After dish soap, I use clay bar. I do not really have a brand of clay bar to recommend. I've only used Mothers Clay Bar kit. One thing I was sure of though, I threw away the carnuba wax which came with it so that I could use my own wax which I prefer. They provide that to remind you to wax your car immediately. You only need about 1/4 of the bar, save the rest for later. You use clay bar as though it were an eraser for small bits of dirt on your paint. You can feel it actually grabbing stuff off the paint, it feels like you hit a rough spot all the sudden. Keep the surface lightly oiled with the instant detailer they provide you, and fold the clay in half every once in a while to expose a new side to make sure you're not putting new scratches in the paint. Just move it across the car back and forth in the same direction which the wind would travel. Spray off the car with a hose when you are done. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...R7L_AA280_.jpg Oxidation removal: Only use this stuff if your paint is starting to look crummy after a good wash and clay bar, or the clear coat is deteriorating. If you're using this, it's because you really need a paint job, but you can't afford it. This will bring back a faded paint job and at least make it shiny. You spread it on with a rag, rub it into the paint in a circular motion, then rub it off with another towel. Another use I've found is to buff it in after you wash, then spray it off. It's a much lighter abrasiveness to the paint this way and it really polishes well, but in no way is it as good as using polishing compound. Alternately, if you've just painted a surface, after 3 days, use this stuff. It will remove eggshell and leave a smooth surface. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...1_front200.jpg Touch-up and color sanding: At this point, I use my Hyundai Cobalt Blue touch up paint pen. I clean the area really well with a little bit of isopropyl rubbing alcohol, then I push against a piece of paper until the paint flows, then touch it to the car wherever I want to have more paint. I then wait 5-10 minutes and do the same with the clear coat side. I love these Hyundai paint pens. They kick butt. To flatten the area after using touch-up paint, you can use some 1500 grit sand paper and water to wet sand the area, spray off the area, then clean off the sanding scratches very lightly with rubbing compound. It takes a few hours before the clear coat is dry enough to do this. Try to keep the sanding and rubbing to a minimal area as it will damage surrounding paint. To color sand, just touch a bit of paint to the area wait 15 minutes, then use some 1500-2000 grit sand paper and water, spray off the area, then use rubbing compound to clean up the sanding marks. *note- professional help is advised with color-sanding or touchup http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f..._Paint_Pen.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...bNaked/200.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...Naked/sand.jpg Polishing: Sometimes it's needed, sometimes it's not. I do not feel comfortable using any abrasive polishes on my paint on a regular basis. I may use one every few years. When I do, it's only because the paint has either dulled or there is some minor scratches in the paint. I use Turtle wax polishing compound. It will remove scratches, and also leave your car shiny as heck. It can damage paint lightly though. Use it sparingly. You put it on with a rag in a circular patter, then buff it off in a circular patter, preferably with a microfiber towel. You may permanently stain your microfiber towel during this. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...rtlewaxcan.jpg Prepairing for wax: Before you wax the car, you want to make sure the surface is ready. Walk around the car and use scratchx as needed. it will remove swirls, fill in scratches and generally leave the paint looking better then before. It's great for spot corrections before you wax. Just spread it on with a paper towel, and rub it in a circle, and keep rubbing it in small circles until it fades away into your paint. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...uct_G10307.jpg Waxing: After removing all your old wax, you need to put on a good base coat of wax. For starters, at the beginning of winter I use some Turtle wax F21 nothing else. This stuff is advertised to last 1 year. I only use it for 6 months during winter time so that I don't have to worry about my paint as much because the paint won't stay as nice in the winter time as it does in the summer. You put it on with a rag and buff it off with a clean microfiber towel. It will take a lot of work to get it to shine, but do it, because once you're done, the shine lasts a LONG time. It takes alot to get this stuff off of your paint. So when it comes time to remove it, go an extra time or two with the dawn dish soap. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...4566379524.jpg For summer time I like to start off with a good THICK paste wax. I like Meguire's Tech Wax paste. There's a lot of different paste waxes out there. I like this stuff. The car looks good with just the wax on it. You put it on with the provided applicator, rub it around in a circular pattern over the whole car, wait 15 minutes, then buff it off with a microfiber towel. It will leave your car shiny as heck. Use it repeatedly to build up a wax layer to protect your paint, but wait about 30 minutes between applications. I'd use it twice, maybe 3 times, but I do it by hand so I cannot repeat this all day long. On the last application make sure the way your towel goes is with the direction of the wind for uniformity purposes. This will make sure the lines in the wax left by the microfiber towel are traveling the same direction. When your towel goes over wax it will polarize it. You will notice it when you look at the sun gleaming off of your car. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...uct_g12711.gif Removing the white oxidation from window trim: Window trim turns white naturally while driving. In order to keep it black, I like to use silicone lube. Silicone lube will remove oxidation and leave a protective coating on plastics and rubber. It's some good stuff and it does not leave a nasty buildup Don't get it on the paint because it will also remove the wax. If you get it on the paint, you can generally just rub it in and be fine, but you may end up touching up the wax along the edges. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/silicone.jpg After car wash waxing: Now for the layer of wax we want to build and loose every time we go to the car wash. I like to use meguires spray wax. It goes on easily. It rubs to a shine easily. It makes a very nice shine over the top of the wax. It seals in the paste wax and makes it last longer. It makes washing easier. Put this stuff on right after you use paste wax and every time you visit the car wash. You just spray it on the car and then rub it in until it looks shiny. Follow the direction of wind flow. That simple. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...G-12824_LG.jpg Weekly washing: I go to a car wash. I don't have resources to bring out a hose every time. NEVER USE A BUBBLE BRUSH except for your wheel wells. Never use car wash wax. Personally, I never use the 3 colors of foam because I have no clue what is in that stuff. Just bring your car into a non-leaking bay, use tire cleaner on your tires and wheel wells, use soap on the outside of the car, rinse, then spot-free rinse, then pull the car out and dry it off with a microfiber towel in the direction of wind flow. When cleaning the rims, use a wheel brush to aid the cleaner in doing it's job, not the bubble brush. It will make sure your rims are clean and not scratched. Daily cleaning: Spray some speed detailer on the car and wipe it off in the direction of wind flow. I like meguires speed detailer. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...YZL_AA280_.jpg Before a car show: Ice is a great product line, but its effects do not last. It's an oil that goes on top of your paint. It collects dust though so be careful. Right after a car wash and speed detailer, I'll use some of this on-site at a car show. You just put it on with the provided applicator and wipe it off in the direction of wind flow. You must use ICE speed detailer to keep it clean. ICE looks great right after use, but does not last for a week nor does it last a trip through the car wash. After using ICE you should apply some meguires speed detailer to remove it and then spray wax. If you are trying to maintain your ICE shine, then use ICE speed detailer as you would meguires speed detailer. Spray it on, wipe it off in the direction of wind flow. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ed/ice_wax.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ed/3003lwq.gif Headlights, corner lights, tail lights: I use plast-x. It removes dings from the surface as well as restores clarity. You just put some on, wait for it to haze over, then rub it off and polish to a nice shine. Some people have said using 0000 steel wool first removes oxidation and prepares the surface for a nice shine. I've never done this, so I cannot comment on it. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f.../Plastxbig.jpg <span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">Interior cleaning:</span> http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f1...000_0283-1.jpg Generally, I use 409 on all surfaces. I use Windex on all glass. I also use LOTS of paper towels. Then before a show I'll use armor-all protectant to get the shine out of the pleather on the dashboard and steering wheel. Armor-all collects dust, so I don't use it all the time. If you see a loose thread, cut off as much as you can, then use a lighter to melt it. The last little bit of it will melt, then you mash it with your finger. If there's an area looking somewhat frayed, you can use a razor to remove fuzz from a surface. If there's discoloration on a black surface, you can use a magic marker to color it back in. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ked/windex.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f..._All_Purpo.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...7_front200.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/armorall.jpg vacuuming: I put the vacuum in my right hand and a brush in my left. I'll scrub everything before I vacuum it up. It helps to agitate dirt out of the carpet and seat fibers. Trust me on the brush. It's the best way to get things clean. Shampoo cleaning: You can rent a shampoo cleaner for about $50 a day. Or, you can use some carpet shampoo and a wet/dry shop vac with a brush. Either way, you'll end up with clean carpets. I get a bucket full of hot water, then add some carpet shampoo. I'll splatter some on the area to be cleaned, agitate it in, then suck it back out while agitating. Don't sit on your seats while the shampoo is drying or you'll mush the fibers down and it will make the seats look old and the carpet too wherever your feet touch. Make sure you vacuum before you shampoo because if you shampoo first, it makes mud which will stay in your carpet and not come up. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...aked/7in1x.jpg All painted surfaces: After cleaning, you can use some spray tech wax to bring out the gloss. Interior is not as important as exterior because it's not subjected to the weather. <span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">Engine bay:</span> http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/100_2579.jpg For a good starting point, if you have no painted surfaces, you can use an engine degreaser of your choice at your favorite auto-parts store. Otherwise you'll be like me, cleaning everything by hand. Engine cleaners come in a tall arisol can. I use silicone lube, 409 and simple green for general cleaning of my engine bay. Some do not like silicone lube. I swear by it. It leaves everything shiny and clean. I spray it on a surface which needs to be cleaned, then I'll wipe it off. It works well. use it on metal, hoses, plastic, anything which needs to be cleaned. Use a big nylon brush to get large areas like the front of the engine or the MAF sensor. Use a toothbrush to get into hard to reach nooks like the grooves on the front of the engine or the corners of the MAF sensor. Be thorough. Engine bay cleaning is a topic of it's own. http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20998 A note on silicone lube, Don't just spray it on everything. Most silicone lubricants contain an acid chemical which eats away corrosion and loosens dirt before they become just silicone. Sometimes it takes a minute for the chemical to evaporate, so depending on the situation use it immediately, or spray it on your rag and then wait before using it on paint or a surface which is questionable. Basically, test in an inconspicuous location. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...d/silicone.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ked/simple.jpg Chrome: A lot of chrome polishes are out there. I like Nevr-Dull. It's a good product and I'm familiar with it because of my military experience. We use nevr-dull to polish our brass on our uniforms. It works good. The product itself is it's own applicator. It's a bunch of cotton which you just rip off and start rubbing on your chrome. Once you rub it on, you rub it back off with a paper towel, or if you decided you want to throw away your microfiber towel, use that. Either way, this stuff works and will leave your chrome shiny. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f..._AA280_gif.jpg Painted surfaces: For high temp paint, you can use rubbing compound and polishing compound to make them shine. I wouldn't try waxing. Hoses: Use silicone lube and a rag to clean any oxidation from the surface. The silicone lube will then act as a protectant to keep them black. At a car show I'll wipe down the hoses with armor-all. It leaves them surprisingly shiny. It collects dust though. Aluminum: Any bare aluminum can benefeit from 0-0000 steel wool. The intake manifold will clean pretty well with just silicone lube, but to make it shine I've found some 0 grit steel wool removes some of the bumps from the manifold, then 00 removes some of the gouges from the 0 grit steel wool and 0000 grit steel wool will polish the aluminum to a high shine. You can follow steel woll up with some Nevr-Dull metal cleaner. The thing about steel woll is that it removes such a small ammount of metal that you won't see it working, but it's noticable if you take a before and after pic. It takes alot of elbow grease to make an improvement. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...aked/steel.jpg <span style="font-size:18pt;line-height:100%">Wheels:</span> http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f1...100_2361-1.jpg rims: I'm not going to tell you what to use on your rims. Every rim is different. There's tons of different products out there meant for different surfaces. Check the labeling and check with the manufacturer. You need something which will leave them looking good and remove all the brake dust. I have not found any spray on/spray off soloution which does not work well, or benefeit from additional scrubbing. Tires and wheel well: I like armor-all extreme tire shine. It works well to remove dirt and dust. It also works very well on the wheel wells. One thing to pay attention to though. Do not get this on pavement. It will leave a quarter moon shape there for a year. Set a rag on the ground by the tire before you spray it to make sure you don't mess up the pavement. Spray this up in your wheel wells and all over the sidewalls of the tire. This product collects dust. If you're at a car show, use a brush to remove all of the rocks, dust, and dirt from the tread of your tires, then spray this onto the tread for that clean as the day the tires were bought look. People will ask if you ever drive the car and be amazed when you say every day. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...ed/8509440.jpg All of these products can be obtained at Advanced Auto Parts, AutoZone, Walmart, and NAPA. You may have to do some searching, but they are there. On a side note, for car shows, I never use any product which collects dust until I get to the show and my car has stopped moving. These are the products which I use. Most of them, I carry around in my car in a water-proof bag in my trunk daily.</div> |
hey guys just searched for the "Engine Detail" thread found nuthin... and the link in this DIY is for the old site apparently, anybody got a updated link?
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I looked and didn't find an old DIY either. Google is going to be your friend on this one. Nothing on our cars is so specific you couldn't use a generic DIY from somewhere else online.
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thanks man ;)
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