Allright, I've said I would post it, so here it is - for all who want to research the megasquirt - here is a lot of useful information that I had a hard time finding.
DIY Megasquirt
Megasquirt is a very powerful ECU that is fully customizable for every setup. It comes with a built in MAP sensor so you can 'easily' bypass your MAF. There is a lot of information on it, and because it is open source, there are always new mods that can be added. http://megasquirt.info is a great place to start research if you have not already done so. You need to have a good understanding of this ECU before you try and install it. Make sure you do lots of research before buying anything.
Now on to the good stuff. Please note this is all based on customization for an RD Tiburon. Newer Tiburons and Elantras will be different on a number of places.

This DIY is quite technical. It is sort of a resource for people that have already researched the MS ECU with information specifically for the RD Tiburon. There is a whole plethora of information available on the MS at http://megasquirt.info.

What you need: (http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm tells you how to assemble the MS)
1 Complete Megasquirt ECU V1 PCB 3 with the following customizations
- MSNS-e code
- setup for VR sensor
- vrout wired to tsel
- 2 VB921s wired for wasted spark output
- there may be some other minor modifications - you will figure them out while assembling.
1 pigtail harness (I built my own)
1 optional GM IAT sensor for better accuracy and to hold boost.
1 DB9 M/F strait through tuning cable (or compatible USB - serial adapter)

Total cost - $198.25 + shipping if you do it all yourself. Cheaper than emanage and SMT6 but WAY more powerful. Prebuilt kits are around $330 + a couple small mods, which most dealers of the MS should be able to do for you if you give them the above list.

Please note: the version 2 CPU will NOT work for the Tiburon just yet. Once the MSNS-e code is released for the V.2 that allows 60-2 and wasted spark, it should be possible to use the version 2 CPU but until that gets thoroughly tested, I would highly recommend using the original version 1 CPU. You can always upgrade in the future.

If you have never touched a soldering iron before, then I wouldn't recommend trying to put together the MS, but if you have done soldering before and are pretty confidant in your abilities then it shouldn't be hard for you to solder the MS together on your own.

I have a base MSQ (configuration file) that seems to be a good starting point for NA if anyone wants to try. Its not perfect, but should get you up an running. I will try to hack it out a little better with my wideband once I get it installed. PM me once you need it.

Some configurations needed in the MS are setup for 60-2. Trigger position A=10 Trigger position return A=18.
You will have to calibrate your OEM temperature sensors with Easytherm to use them with the MS. I currently am using a new GM air intake temperature sensor - one that is recommended for use with Megasquirt. The calibration for that is built into Megasquirt.
In order to get accurate calibration of the ECT sensor, you need to remove only R7, as you can read up on at http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/sharesen.htm.

I figured out an accurate calibration for the coolant sensor while sharing the OEM controller. Using the default BIAS value of 2490 ohms in easytherm, enter these values for the CLT sensor:
10615 ohms 32degF
2970 ohms 104degF
830 ohms 176degF
These values should be perfect.

The following values should be right for the AIT when sharing it with the OEM controller, if you decide to use the stock one with a bias value of 2490. (for this to be accurate, you need to remove R4.):
5810 ohms 32degF
1401 ohms 104degF
405 ohms 176degF

I wish I would have had these values to start with - it would have made tuning it originally so much easier.

If you do NOT want to share these sensors with the OEM ECU, but decide to go full standalone, you need to leave R4 and R7 soldered in place, and use the following values for the sensors (bias value of 2490). You cannot have them connected to the stock ECU then.

CLT
5890 ohms 32degF
2500 ohms 68degF
310 ohms 176degF

AIT
9080 ohms 32degF
3420 ohms 68degF
330 ohms 176degF

Then, wiring it up is easy. I soldered all the wires on my pigtail to the existing OEM harness while leaving the stock ECU connected. This was WAY easier then trying to run new wires. I only had to wire 1 new wire for my air intake temperature sensor and had to bring a 4mm vacuum line through the firewall for the MAP sensor.
Pin 7-19 (ground) on the MS to pin 6, 34, 55, 25. Wire at least 4 of the MS ground wires. I wired 8 - 2 into each stock wire.
Pin 20 on the MS to pin 77 on the ECU harness (AIT sensor - If you are using the GM sensor, then obviously wire that here instead)
Pin 21 on the MS to pin 78 on the ECU harness (CLT sensor)
Pin 22 on the MS to pin 73 on the ECU harness (TPS)
Pin 23 on the MS to pin 12 on the ECU harness (O2 - if you are using a wideband controller, you would wire that here instead)
Pin 24 on the MS to pin 16 on the ECU harness (VR/RPM)
Pin 28 on the MS to pin 58 on the ECU harness (+12 - this needs to be a good connection. Make sure you wire here as it is on for cranking.)
Pin 32 on the MS to pin 3 on the ECU harness (injector bank 1 These wires need to be cut off from the ECU)
Pin 33 on the MS to pin 4 on the ECU harness (injector bank 1 These wires need to be cut off from the ECU)
Pin 34 on the MS to pin 31 on the ECU harness (injector bank 2 These wires need to be cut off from the ECU)
Pin 35 on the MS to pin 32 on the ECU harness (injector bank 2 These wires need to be cut off from the ECU)
Pin 36 on the MS to pin 52 on the ECU harness (spark output 1 These wires need to be cut off from the ECU)
Pin 6 on the MS to pin 25 on the ECU harness (spark output 2 These wires need to be cut off from the ECU)

I have not yet wired up the spark outputs, so far I am just tuning the injectors. I recommend starting with one or the other. Get it all wired up first without the injectors or spark outputs just to make sure all the sensors are reading properly. Then, hook up either the spark outputs or injector outputs.

Now comes the fun part. See if your engine will start. Make sure you have some sort of base configuration. Mine started right away but was running super rich. It should start pretty easily if you use my MSQ and calibrate your sensors.

Now you have to tune. It shouldn't be to hard using log files and MSTweak3000 with a narrowband sensor. If you have a wideband, use log files and VEXME.

If you find this information helpful, or have anything to add or change, please post. I have done a lot of legwork to make the MS a reality for the Tiburon, and am posting the information here in hopes that it will benefit others.

funkypc on RDT

glad to see another MS fan out there. as soon as i get my turbo stuff together ill be using it to control my secondary injectors.

not even near its potential, but still a hell of a lot cheaper and more upgradeable than anything else on the market.

good diy.

Nice DIY, would love to see some pics though.

Tibby01, if it's so great, then why do you need secondary injectors? Just get some bigger injectors eh?

yah, i love it.
honestly t01, I would use it to control the stock injectors and not use a second rail - or larger than stock injectors. It is easily just as drivable once you get it tuned, plus, the stock ecu will never lean out any injectors if they are not connected.
Redz, I'll see if I can get some pics sometime, but all the info is very detailed on the MS website.

and actually, T01 if you replace the stock injectors you can bypass MAF

t01 PM me with your email address if you want to see my MSQ.

If you threw together a kit and made it simple to install, im sure people would be interested!

I have a question - what's with the "wasted spark" stuff? As I understand it, it means that the spark plug fires whenever the piston is at TDC], which is twice as often as it should. Why would you neet/want this?

Hmm... So this is a piggyback right?

For this kind of price, sounds almost too good to be true.

I need to be able to tune my fuel, maybe my ignition, and still pass OBDII Emissions tests.

Can I do that with this system?

Also, I'm assuming most tuners tune this?

It can be used as a standalone, but you probably still want to keep part of the stock ECU functionality, even if megasquirt controls both ignition and fueling (e.g. stock ecu might control the gauges I think).

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Nathan @ Sep 22 2007, 08:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>If you threw together a kit and made it simple to install, im sure people would be interested!</div>

I'll think about it. If I can perfect mine, I may start doing something like that.. possibly even a pnp harness with a basemap. Not in the next few months though.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (REDZMAN @ Sep 22 2007, 09:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Hmm... So this is a piggyback right?

For this kind of price, sounds almost too good to be true.

I need to be able to tune my fuel, maybe my ignition, and still pass OBDII Emissions tests.

Can I do that with this system?

Also, I'm assuming most tuners tune this?</div>

Its not a piggyback. Almost noone uses it as a piggyback. This is a full standalone like haltec/PRS4 etc. It can control spark and fuel fully. It is so cheap because it is open source, but that also means it constantly has upgrades and options available. ie I have the boost control modkit so I can use a simple solinoid to control boost. Its a pretty simple system - I am street tuning mine - it should be super easy once I get my wideband installed. Then, all I need to do is plug my turbo in and go. as far as passing emisions, I dont know the rules on that, but this is a full standalone and does not have obd functionality (although CAN may be implimentable on the new CPU)

Wasted spark is the same system the stock ecu uses. Yes twice as much spark as is needed from my understanding.

I am letting the stock ECU control my guages, idle, A/C, etc.. Hopefully I'll eventually be able to control everything with the MS.

Guys, there is lots of info available on this ECU. Go to http://megasquirt.info and read the manual.

Oh, I think I get it. It's because the ECU doesn't actually know which of the two possible strokes each cylinder is at for a given crank position - the crankshaft sensor is not enough, since an engine cycle takes two revolutions.. so the ECU just does everything twice (spark and injectors spray). Is this right?

The megasquirt seems very very interesting. Even more so since I am a programmer, it would be cool if I could add my own pieces of code to help run my car smile.gif

By the way, I'm not sure about this, but if you keep your stock ECU, you might still pass emissions if the O2 sensors are still connected and the fuel is tuned right..

funkypc - can megasquirt make use of the knock sensor to detect detonation and adjust timing? the ECU does that, maybe it's better to keep the ECU for the spark timing, and only use megasquirt for the injectors?