Re: Shaved doorhandles and Remote Popper
 

Another one I did at HA

First, props to KayJai in this here for all of his info. It was from this info that I decided to do this mod.

Used: 2 blue 3.7v 20mA 2600mcd 5mm LED's ($1.50 for both)
This took me about 30 minutes including removing and reinstalling the door panel.


First you need to pop the door panel off, which most of us already know how to do.
Once the door panel is off you will need to pop the window switch out. It simply pops up (versus down which in turn would make it fall inside the door panel if the panel were on)with a little prying on the tabs holding it in.

Once it is out you need to pop the top gray trim piece off, it should look like this afterwards
http://www.brendanandliz.com/images/diy3.jpg


Now you need to take the window switch buttons off. There is a black plastic rod that slides thru them. All you need to do is poke the rod with something small and then pull it out. Keep in mind the window switch buttons are spring loaded, so it is a good idea to push down on them while removing the rod to keep them from flying away.
http://www.brendanandliz.com/images/diy1.jpg


You will need to desolder the two joints above circled in red in order to remove the circuit board the LEDs are on. Once it's desoldered you can remove it by gently prying on it with a screwdriver. It may help to pry while you have a hot soldering gun on the joint. Once it is removed you need to flip it over and desolder the existing LEDs circled in red (below). The big red arrow pointing down is for reference for the polarities of the LEDs. The LED has a big metal flange inside of it on one side. That big metal flange faces the direction the arrow is pointing.
http://www.brendanandliz.com/images/diy2.jpg


Just do everything in reverse to put it back together and your done. Hopefully it should look something like this:
http://www.brendanandliz.com/images/diy4.jpg


My digital camera does not do this mod justice. It is really a deep, rich blue, not a washed out bluish green color.

I would have posted some more thorough pics but I am quickly running out of much needed space on my web server.

Good Luck.

I did this DIY (i know its old) but instead, why not use 3mm LEDs (the same size as the OEM ones). Then you will have no problem doing the passenger window switch, and the window lock button.
after I completed it it looks wonderful.

lol, i guess i just assumed that 3mm leds were used. yeah,3mm is the size you want.

maybe its because it is hard to find blue 3mm leds at common stores. i think ive only seen 5mm blue ones at radio shack.

i believe i used the 5mm ones because thats all I could find in blue. And my pasenger side one works, and the auto windows works as well....

If you need more colors of LEDs in either 5mm or 3mm, let me know, I have tons of everything.

Thanks for the DIY, ill get right on this.

Anyone else have problems with their buttons sticking after this?

Idk, I wouldn't be able to tell you, my buttons stick now, and the window doesn't like to go smoothly down or up...lol..

The sticking button thing seems to happen whether you do this mod or not.
It's the crappy buttons.
Best advice I can give to try to limit it from sticking is to blow some contact cleaner followed by some compressed air to get rid of the crude that sticks to the bottom of the buttons.

spray graphite will work wonders for anything that is sticking. just be sure not to get it on electrical contacts.

...

Hmm.. So get some electrical spray cleaner and clean the hell out of it the next time I have it out. THen lube up the pivot pin and the little balls?

you dont need the electric spray cleaner. just go in there with some dry spray graphite and hit some of the contact points. just dont spray the graphite on anything electrical, because it probably conducts electricity and will burn up your window switch.

So basically take the switch apart if you're gonna use the graphite spray

Ill definately go pick some up, Its annoying me. Thanks for the suggestions.

I did this mod a couple months ago, you can probably see it in my exhaust video and I've never had a problem with them. I used 3mm LEDS.

There is a local store around that deals with lights etc etc. My pops knows the owner and he's come by the house a couple times. I talked to him about these LEDS and he said he doesn't sell them in his store but he can order them. Any size any color and they are real cheap.

I got my self 100 3MM Blue LEDS for 30 bucks. If anyone is intrested for this mod or others pm me and I'll hook you up unless your KITFOX who sticks leads in every corner of your car.

My buttons were sticky for a bit, but after wiggling them a bit, they worked great (or as good as tibby window buttons ever work lol)

I used the 5mm leds when i did it and it works fine. I assembled the passenger side wring so it doesnt work but other than that everything works fine. My buttons have been sticking since i got the car and nothing i have tried seems to help. Including compressed air - wd-40, etc...

I used 5mm LEDs because they were available, and they worked, and they should for everyone else too.
I was able to do the passenger side just as easily. Plus, you're able to get them a lot brighter as well

As for sticking, if you don't reassemble them right, they will stick. I ran in to this problem myself. It's hard to explain, but the window button itself has that long tab that goes down inside the switch. Inside the switch there is a contact that moves back and forth (front to back). If you look down inside the slot (that the tab on the button goes through) you can see it. It moves back and forth on it's own with the button out. I had to reach down inside there with a tiny screwdriver, center it (as if the button was in it's neutral position) and then put the button in so that the end of the long tab fits in the groove of the switch contact. If not, you get sticking.

Also, I wouldn't bother with graphite, too risky. Contact cleaner (basically mineral oil in a bottle with some propellant) will clean and lubricate and won't fry anything electrical as it does not conduct eletricity.

If you're having sticking issue that you didn't before the mod, and the LED is soldered on straight and flush with the circuit board, take it apart and put it together again.

Didnt want to start a new thread so i figured i would jsut throw it at the end of this. I couldnt quiet get this diy to work for me. Got the circuit board desoldered and off, then desoldered one of the green led's replaced it with a 3mm blue led resoldered it and placed it back on the window switch. Now the other green one lit up, but my blue one didnt. I know the polarities arent wrong, and i know theres power there. I checked theres exactly 1.97v. Then i figured i would put the green one back on in place of the blue. Then it worked fine again. But when the blue goes in it doesnt work, but yet theres still 1.97v going to it. I know the blue led isnt bad just checked it right before and right after with my cell phone battery, which is 3.7v

Anybody have any clue what this could be??

Appreciate any help!!

you have the solder touching on the back side of the light. solder cant touch also check your + and - on the led
http://www.brendanandliz.com/images/diy2.jpg
cant touch

what kinda Leds did you get? the same as the DIY?

Got a little confused by that!
What do u mean i have the soder touching on the back side of the light sodder cant touch

and my positive is down and negative is up

-double check polarity
-make sure the + and - arent touching via a little excess solder.

^^^^ Failing what Tibby01 said^^^^
You might have burnt the LEDS by putting too much heat to them

Can we get these images updated.. if anyone has a set..?

Completed!

Followed this mod as well as I could without images. De-soldering those two forks are a b****! So messy, getting them back on is difficult too.

Results are awesome except for two things. One of my LEDS was dimmer than the other two (Grr) the second problem is that the passenger side never had a problem, but now you have to press hard to get the window to go down. I tried doing as allblacktibby said but I couldn't seem to get it sorted out. I might try that mineral oil stuff as described. The latter issue is a real concern for me, my wife isn't happy she has to press so hard to get the damned thing to work.

Nevertheless... Results are good. Very happy.

What do you mean updated?
The images on the first page still appear fine.
Here's mine when it was JUST done,... still looks and works great.
One is not dimmer than the other,... If you're not good with soldering, you probably cooked the LED a little too long,.. lmao.gif
http://members.shaw.ca/camt/MVC-114F.JPG

As for your problem on the pass side,...
That's a bit of a PITA
When you put your button back, you have to make sure the slider on of the bottom (where the button pivots) is in the middle,.. if not it's be either sticky or hard to push,...
I betcha she has no problems going up eh? wink1.gif
It's just going down,...

For some reason the images are broken for me.... and the website its from is down.. Damn. I really wanna do the door handle one too but i need the images.

I made sure the thing was centered, tried a few times but still doesnt work very well. and yeh it goes up fine, but coming down you need to press hard. Led cookage? damn... $4.50 AU for each LED. Which is like.. $3 a LED U.S....

Still looks good. Very happy with it.

Pics below but excuse the quality, taken with camera phone. Can't wait to get my whole dash & new head unit blue LED's... will look good. too much red atm.

http://www.twofifty.cc/plogger/tiburon/photo%27s

basically, pull out the circuit board, and replace the LED by desoldering the old one and soldering in the new one.



try shaving down the top of the LED, it sounds like you're catching on the switch. Either that or get a 3mm LED.



Looks good. that's the first time i've seen a right side driver tib.

I used 3mm leds & it's not catching. Checked that one. Oh well, i'll take a look at it some time in the future. Doesn't bother me, my wife can still use it, she just presses a little harder.

Next time i will shave down the led, didn't know they looked better like that. Thanks bro.

Yeh in australia we drive on the LHS of the road & our drivers seat is on the RHS. Freaky huh.

well, if that dosn't work, increase spring tensions on your switches and ensure there is no blockage/extra plastic material on the contact surfaces. Ensure that all connections are good basically. You can physically look at switches and see how they work (or dont).

next time i take the door off (going to do the door handle led's, ill do that) thanks for your help bro.

finished mine an hour ago. they look great.

Thanks ABT

I was looking at the wiring and noticed that it is a 1K resistor. This is set up for 2 10mA green LEDs. if you're wondering how to make it brighter, that's it. I'll post when i do my mod.

Here's some pics:

http://www.twofifty.cc/plogger/thumb...5-dsc01265.jpg
http://www.twofifty.cc/plogger/thumb...3-dsc01267.jpg

Quality aint that good but you get the picture. More here:
http://www.twofifty.cc/plogger/tibur...blue_interior/

I did mine with 5mm LEDs, but I would say go with 3mm. Mine stick on occasion, and I'm pretty sure the large LED is the culprit, even though I sanded the tops. 3mm LEDs will still be bright enough to blind you at night if you want.

Pics are down! Can someone update these please. Im really wanting to do this mod. Is there a special way to desolder the board? Just for future reference when I actually get around to do it when the pics are back up.

Just finished mine, passenger side (first one) took me about 3 hours, but I was a newb on soldering. Drivers side took me under an hour (from in place to reinstalling it).
To desolder the circuit board, just put a lot of heat directly on the 2 joints holding it down, and then be sure to get rid of all their solder to make it easier to reinstall. You'll probably melt the plastic under it, but just remelt before installing it at the end.
Looks beautiful, I sanded then 3mm LED, and it works and looks incredible.

Just got my 2 middle angel eyes made and installed, have to do the door ones now. My interior is starting to look like yours! ^^

couple notes...

1. its best to use a de-soldering sucker. the basic one are just a syringe looking thing that you pump once, then push a button to suck everything up.

2. heat on the leads of the LED will kill the led QUICK. you want to try and keep the amount of time you hold the tip to the lead at a minimum.

^^^ werd.gif Leds are very sensitive.

My desoldering tool is even more basic then that.. I've got this bulb like a doctor would use in an ear infection. I just squeeze it, let it go, and let it suck the solder smile.gif. You can get them at RS for like $5, they're good to have around... If you ever F--- up your soldering, just heat it up, suck it off and start over.



Don't try to heat up solder and stick the LED through the already soldered hole, that will mess up the LED because of all the heat needed. You need to pull out the old LEDs, get rid of the solder using a desoldering bulb, wick, or tool of some sort. You can even use a piece of wire, just tin it on the board. Keep in mind that the solder that Hyundai uses is VERY toxic. I got high off that once, and that's not good at all because it's got lead in it. My desoldering tool is even more basic then that.. I've got this bulb like a doctor would use in an ear infection. I just squeeze it, let it go, and let it suck the solder smile.gif. You can get them at RS for like $5, they're good to have around... If you ever F--- up your soldering, just heat it up, suck it off and start over.

Yeah, blew an LED doing it too... What I ended up doing was leaving the legs on the LEDs and soldering it to different points on the circuit board, so then I was soldering about an inch away from the LED, and didn't burn it out. I had no clearance issues with that either. Plus I didn't have to worry about getting the solder over onto the other leg and messing up the circuit completely.

Anyone have the pictures for this DIY somewhere? It always helps if you have a visual aid smile.gif