Hyundai Aftermarket

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-   Braking, Wheels, Tires, Suspension (https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/forum/braking-wheels-tires-suspension-12/)
-   -   Sway Bar End Links (https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/forum/braking-wheels-tires-suspension-12/sway-bar-end-links-50158/)

DTN 12-04-2008 05:27 AM

My swaybar end link boots are cracked and the grease is gone. The boots obviously need to be replaced. I'm wondering what benefeits I'll see from a replacement. I don't know how critical these are to the suspension system. Will I see less vibration from the suspension, better handling, less chance of critical end link failure, or all of the above? I'm trying to figure out if I should place these as a higher priority then replacing scratched window tint.

Polaris 12-04-2008 05:57 AM

I was thinking about replacing mine also, with the kjb adjustable ones, anyone have them? Are they worth it?

REDZMAN 12-04-2008 06:09 AM

A few folks do, including Javageek.

I'm getting the whiteline ones, you can adjust them on the car. The KJB ones you have to take apart to adjust. Kinda pointless.

yamaha 12-04-2008 06:29 AM

Moog makes endlinks that are pretty darn beefy for the RD's. They should be less then $20 total.

Stocker 12-04-2008 07:47 AM

If something has a boot holding grease in a joint, and the boot fails and the grease evacuates, you will (eventually) get the moving parts inside either falling apart or siezed together. If they siezed your suspension would probably bind/jerk while driving, and if they fall apart you will have clunking of loose parts and potential of damaging something else with the flailing ends.

For $20 and not too much hassle to replace, go for it before problems start.

Bullfrog 12-04-2008 08:13 AM

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (yamaha @ Dec 4 2008, 08:29 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Moog makes endlinks that are pretty darn beefy for the RD's. They should be less then $20 total.</div>


Rock Auto has them. They even come with grease fittings on the outside as well.

And getting new ones means you can just cut the damn bolts off the old ones and saving yourself alot of hassle.

likeyoumeanit 12-04-2008 10:08 AM

Staying on topic and not attempting to hijack the thread, is there significant benefit in the ability to adjust them?

As a noob, my opinion is probably negligible, but if you end links failed that could lead to more significant damage where as your window tint probably isn't gonna smash anything up that soon.

DTN 12-04-2008 10:37 AM

I'm not quite worried about them breaking just yet. I'm guessing they are starting to bind, as they don't move freely when i attempt to rotate them left and right, so hopefully replacing them would remove some jerkyness from my suspension system. I'll order some today. thanks stocker.

I can't seem to find rear endlinks anywhere, any links to parts?

radu_rd2 12-04-2008 10:38 AM

I would get the Spicer ones rather than the Moog ones (both from rockauto.com). The Spicer has a sealed boot, Moog has to be filled up with grease, and the Moog i had rusted like crap in a few months.

DTN, they're on rockauto.com under Suspension/Stabilizer Bar Link. $17 for a rear, $21 for a front.

fury 12-04-2008 12:07 PM

I think the ones I got (which I replaced in Feb/08) were the Moog ones. I can't remember if it was Moog or Spicer (I think it was Moog), I can check for you, BUT... (a big BUT)... here my strong recommendation:

get the one that I got (again, I can check for you if it was Moog or Spicer) because... the ones with the nut-type by the boot (like the OEM one) SUCK and will only cause you headaches if you need to replace it in the future. In my case (Canadian weather, road salt,...), working on suspension is a nightmare!!!!! My OEM sway bar links were so seized due to rust, that nothing would hold onto that nut (by the boot) on the sway bar link. I tried vices, wrench, pb blaster, NOTHING. The corners rounded off. I just had to angle grind the sway bar link off of the lower control arm and stabilizer bar. Not to mention that even if I had managed to get it off, it was garbage because the vices squished the boot (there isn't enough clearance between that nut and the boot, for a vice).

Now, the ones that I got, don't have that nut. Instead, at the end of that bolt where you screw in the main nut (the one that is not attached to the bolt), there is an opening for a hex key. just insert the hex key in the end of that bolt, and turn on the main nut to tighten (or loosen, in the future), and you don't even have to hold the hex key from turning; it jams against the stabilizer bar.


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