Hello,

I'm planning to change all the rotors and pads on my '99 Tibby FX. I'm not too knowledgeable with cars but can change my oil and brake pads. I have disc brakes all the way around. I think my front right rotor is warped because I hear a speed-related noise coming from that wheel wheel at low speeds which fades away at higher speeds. I can also feel a definite pulsing in the brake pedal from what I assume to be the wobbly rotor wobbling to and fro.

Since me and buddy who knows more about cars is going to help me, I figured I'd replace all the rotors and brakes since I'm saving money by doing it myself. I have a few questions. Would someone more experienced be so kind to lend a hand with answering:

-This will likely be my car's last brake job, can I get by with AutoZone's Duralast cheapo pads? I they last 20K miles I'd be happy.

-How hard is it to replace rotors? The AutoZone guide says I need a special tool 09568-34000. I've read posts about captive vs. non-captive rotors but have no clue what I have.

-Do I need to take the rotors to a machine shop to press in the lug bolts? The rotor pics show the lug holes empty and I think the bolts are pressed in right? Or do they just pass through the rotor?

-And lastly, are brakes sold in pairs meaning 2 pads for 1 wheel, or is it 4 pads for 2 wheels? (I know, I saved the hardest question last!)


I'm taking off work this Friday to make a day of working on cars so if anyone can respond before then, you would be AWESOME!


Thanks,
Chuck

 

Im no car expert myself, but ive watched my dad change a few brake rotors, and calipers and stuff like that so ill try and help you out a bit.



I have duralast pads and rotors and they do what they are supposed to do, stop my car, idk if they will last you 20k because i havent had mine that long.



If you know someone with experience it should be easy, depending on what condition your car is in. I also dont know about the captive and non captive rotors.



The rotors should just slide on, you shouldnt have to press the holes if thats what you are asking.



The pads will come in backs of 4 (4 for the front, 4 for the back), the front and the rear pads are different sizes so make sure you get the correct size and what not.


I know these answers arent the best but i hope they can help. Im sure other people will either explain it more or even correct me on my answers. and BTW post up some pictures of your tib

 

Diy : Captive Hub/rotor Swap

anything you need to know is in the DIY section of the performance area.

 

but, being said that he has a 99 tib, he wouldn't have captive rotors..

autozone rotors and pads will do just fine.. i put the cheap shit on my tib and never had any issues..

the rotors, depending on how rusted, may pop right off, or need influence of a hammer/rubber mallet..

there might be retaining screws on the rotors, which you will see, that need to be removed first..

 

Please update your profile with location. Maybe someone is local to you and can give you a hand.

 

Thanks for the quick responses. I'll update my profile and see about getting some pics on here. Nothing much to look at but aging stock features smile.gif

Totally off-topic, but is anyone interested in modded xbox 360's? I have some systems, sell the drive to read originals, and can upgrade existing systems. Sorry if there's a miscellaneous topic that this should go under. I'll move it there when i get a chance.

Thanks again. This forum rocks!

 

thanks Nate for letting me know about the 99 rd1's not having captive's, i know nill about them in terms of what years what is on what. if it doesnt mean anything to my car, i dont do the research. but, the DIY will help him change out his rotors and pads anyways,lol.

 

dont worry man, i did my fronts last week, machined the rotors and new pads

took maybe 3 hours with distractions, just make sure you get all the caliper bolts off, there should be two 15mm and 2 12mm? not sure if they are 12 but 90% sure, then just pop them off and there will be two screws on the front of the rotor that will need to be pulled

after that just pull on the rotors (or beat with a hammer on the center if they are rusted like mine were) and work them off, its real easy

make sure to put silicone brake lube on the pads/caliper to keep from rusting or squeaking

if you can change your oil and think straight as to how everything came off it will be very easy

 

Awesome, thanks Yellow. I want to be as prepared as possible to make it go quickly and smoothly.

Can someone clarify what the "special tool" I mentioned earlier is used for? Captive rotors?

 

Go read the threads about brakes my man, all the info you want is already here. Trust me. The tool as well. It's a brake caliper tool for the rear brakes.




That's totally off the topic here bro, please post this in the For Sale section.