YELLOWSHARK-That's what I was planning on spending anyway. I was thinking of creating a kit for the Tiburon (and for all 2.0L Beta engines) in conjuction with Hose Techniques. Yeah...I like buying random little parts from Pep Boys, but the hoses are ****e. I did find a killer shift knob for $20 though.

SHANGSTAR- Some people bend the bracket and leave in the stock spot, some mount it to the bottom corner of the fuse box. Just keep it in the same orientation (horizontal and upright) and you'll be OK. I'm probably going to mount it to the fuse box.

[ May 28, 2001: Message edited by: Zeek ]

Me personally, I found it a whole lot easier to move it to the corner screw of the fusebox closest to where it is now. Here is a pic of mine and a close up of Dan's with the sensor mounted the same as mine, I lost that pic.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...nce=0&res=high
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...nce=0&res=high

I don't know about you guys, But i mounted it on the strut where it went originally, I did have to bend it slightly, but not where it looked wierd. check out my struts and setup on my website shark.deckernet.net
click on strut bars. I'm using shark-racing ones.

Moving it to the corner of the fuse box keeps it in exactly the same posistion that it was in and you do not have to bend it at all.

I see alot of talk about this sensor and I see were it has to be moved to, but what is this sensor called and what does it do.

Mine is labeled a "knock sensor." This would be opposed to a "knocker sensor" which would go in the backseat. :D :D :D

I believe it's all electronic, so it can go in the engine in any orientation. Rather than deal with bending the original mounting bracket to accomodate the new brace, I simply used one of the leftover screws to affix it back to the lower hole that the bracket previously used. It now rests "on edge" from the original orientation, but I don't think it matters. It's better than just letting it dangle by the cable.

The sensor is actually a "knock reference" sensor.

The knock sensor itself is in the motor block. It's a small piezeo-electric (sp?) device that listens for the distinctive pinging associated with detonation in your motor.

The problem is, since your block is a solid chunk of metal, normal road noise can travel through the metal casting and cause a "false alarm" for the knock sensor. Think about driving down a dirt road, and little pebbles and shiz pinging off your oilpan as you are cruising down. This noise would cause the knock sensor to (falsely) detect ping, and start pulling timing.

This sensor on the strut tower is a knock reference, and listens to normal road noise as heard from the actual chassis of the car. If the knock sensor on your block starts hearing pings, the computer looks at the knock reference signal to see if it's perhaps just a road condition.

The best idea is to keep it mounted exactly where it is -- the strut tower is a very sturdy component and will transmit chassis and road noise very well, especially with your new strut bar. If you absolutely must move it, make really sure it's solidly mounted (using all the bolts) and it's attached to something metal and hard.

If you leave it dangle, the knock sensor will be very overactive and could potentially cause a noticeable performance loss.

-Red-

Thanks for clearing that up Red. Do you think I need to move mine back up top?

So long as the sensor is solidly mounted to a sturdy metal surface, you should be fine. It needs to be mounted to metal in order to "hear" all the noise it can, and it must be SOLID so that noise doesn't vibrate around.

-Red-

I just installed my strut bars for my Accent. For the "knock reference" sensor, I just mounted it right on top of the strut bar mount, however I probably will move it in the future, I just don't feel like bothering with it now.

BTW, the strut bars are AMAZING. I took my car out for a spin before I installed them, then down the same twisty road after and I couldn't believe the difference they make.

My Accent is completely stock (155/75 tires and all smile.gif) other than the front and rear strut bars. I think now, however, I need to invest in a rear sway bar, as the rear end is still a little too loose.