Tibbi

My alt went out on the Tib and I've found a bunch of stock replacements in the 90 amp range. But the comp is almost done then I am installing some subs, an amp, component speakers and other goodies. My thinking is that might be pushing the 90A to it's limits, plus I really want to keep what ever I put on this for the new motor. I've seen a ton of threads all with conflicting info. Is there a good OEM replacement from another with more power, or maybe a trusted after market? Or would I be better to rebuild the stock one to produce more power? If so, what are some trusted kits?



edit:

Just saw this guy. It's for a beta2 and produces 200A supposedly.

Stocker

I've replaced at least 3 alternators that had electrical failures and my sound system isn't very powerful. They fail sometimes. Unless you have thousands of watts pumping and can't hear yourself think on your daily commute, your stock alternator is probably more than powerful-enough.



...and it's amps not watts.

Tibbi

Yeah, I just realized that one small typo is what I have been sweating all day. I guess I needed a 2nd cup this morning.



The psu for my carputer is 160w and the draw for my amp is around 40A, but even then the requirement is still in the neighborhood 53A; and that's at peak use. The extra ~2V the alt puts out are pretty significant in that equation too, so I see your point. The peak draw from those 2 alone is half what the stock alt puts out. And I'll never run my amp at full blast because I like my eardrums intact.











Ever had one of those moments where you just had to say something dumb to know you're dumb? That feel, right now. I'm going back to my corner now.

Stocker

You may feel a little better about using a stock replacement when you consider the following: you aren't using that much electricity. The ratings printed on electronics are maximum ratings. For most of the audio you can listen to and still hear someone else speaking in the car, the entire audio system is probably pulling fewer than 50 Watts. The computer will only draw those 120W when it is doing some extremely-hard thinking while displaying complicated graphics on high-bandwidth data streams. Also, the alternator is sized to run the car, power the a/c, power the radio, power the windows, power the head lamps, power the windshield wipers, power the window heaters, etc. ALL at the same time plus a little margin.



Stock alternators are *usually* all most people will ever need.