Tibbychick

Well, no, it's not illegal per se. I don't know how it is in other states, but in NY i passed inspection without it. The thing I'm not sure about is insurance. If you get into an accident and they find that the airbag was removed, you may be SOL for coverage.

Alex01tib

I believe the law is that its illegal to tamper with a functioning airbag, but there's nothing saying it has to be there. So whomever took it out could get in trouble but having a car with a removed one wont get you in trouble because they cant prove you did it. You can just say it was like that when you bought it or you removed it when it deployed for whatever reason.

I also got my car inspected with my aftermarket wheel in NY and they said nothing, just complimented me on my hood :-P

Tibbychick

^That's very true...another thing is when I did have an accident where the airbag deployed, it caused more harm than good. And my car is worth $2 anyway so I'm not too worried about insurance. I did keep the stock airbag and wheel just in case I have to swap it back in when I land in Canada.

Coal_forge

On $9 bathroom scale
Pass . AB = 5-6lbs
AC compressor 16lbs
AC evaporator 5lbs
AC condensor 5lbs
AC lines 1 lbs
Condensor fan 3lbs
my old battery 40 lbs


Technically I didn't remove the airbags or the airbag system because my friend helped me with removal of the dash and he worked on the passanger side.

I ordered some 16x7 (15.2lbs) konig feathers yesterday with some nexen 7000 tires for $744 (includes mounting and balancing)
http://www.performanceplustire.com/

b1gb4ll3r

I wander if this guy who removed his PS from the 3rd pg of this thread was having a harder time w/o PS was b/c he drained the fluid out of the rack too?! Coal Forge where did you start w/ taking off your a/c compressor & condensor & lines n what not? Radiator 1st or cv axle?


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tdonnell @ Aug 18 2006, 05:01 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I think I will remove the reservior first, then disconnect the 22mm nut on top of the pump, then remove that line from the rack. After that, (of course I will have a drain pan under the pump and rack) I will turn the wheel back and forth with the feed line disconnected to drain most of the fluid left in the rack.

I will definately be sure to do all of this carefully so I can re-install the system later.

I'm sure I can find a bolt at my local hardware store to cap off the rack (they have an excellent selection of misc. nuts, bolts, washers, etc.).

Well, I removed the P/S and can say it IS pretty difficult to steer without moving. Once you get going, it gets easier. Not QUITE as easy as with the pump connected, but pretty close, under ONE condition. If you try to steer farther than say a 1/4 turn of the wheel, it becomes difficult to turn again.

I would say that this is a race only mod if you enjoy easy cornering. Removing it is not very safe for daily driving IMO because your steering response time in case of emergeny is drastically reduced. Also, when you hit bumps and potholes with only one of the front wheels, the steering wheel easily jerks in that direction, making it more difficult to maintain the line you want in a corner.

Maybe I will get used to it though, I dunno. Right now I am pretty pissed because I could not get the pressure and return line fittings out of the rack (they were EXTREMELY tight), so I just cut the lines from the rack and used a couple of bolts and RTV to seal it. Before I sealed it though, I turned the steering wheel from lock to lock about 15 times to get the rest of the fluid out of the rack (probably another 1/2 quart, lol).

Anyway, I weighed all of the components involved with the P/S system that I removed including the heavy ass mounting bracket and the fluid (1 qt - I estimated). I came up with 15 lbs.

Throttle response is EVER SO SLIGHTLY quicker and it MIGHT have better pull but I am probably imagining both just to make it seem worth while, lol.

I can always yank the parts off my spare tib and put it back in though, and right now I am thinking about it. I decided to give it a few weeks first.</div>

JonGTR

Added:



- Replace factory hood (33lbs) with a fiberglass hood (18.5lbs). 14.5lb savings.





Weighed them both just now. The fiberglass hood is the EVO style, which "may" have less weight due to large vent/hole.

2000J25SP

Measured these on a very accurate paint scale. Came out of a 2000 Elantra btw.





Intake manifold support: 1.86 lbs

Shifter counterweight: 1.03 lbs (pressed in style)

Shifter counterweight: 1.18 lbs (Beta 2 bolt on type)

Glovebox metal: 2.57 lbs

AC Evaporator: 4.34 lbs

Charcoal canister: 5.48 lbs

sound deanening tar under carpet: 12.41 lbs

Sound deadening tar under rear seat: 1.68 lbs

trunk sound deadening tar: 1.74 lbs

Vacuum reservoir: 0.35 lbs

Secondary cat delete: 10.23 lbs. (Cat is 11.64 lbs - 1.41 lbs (2"x18" test pipe)

Set of 1.5in lowering springs: 2.36 lbs lighter than stock set.

1.5in lowering springs with - 1 rear coil: 1.35 lbs

Stock front springs with 1 coil cut: 2.56 lighter than stock.



Also have a 1.8 semi header, will install soon.

2000J25SP

Factory manifold/cat: 20.0 lbs

'96 J2 1.8l 4-2-1 manifold "semiheader": 12.25 lbs

Weight savings of 7.75 lbs.

2000J25SP

Front brake splash guard/heat shields: 1.12 lbs (total from both sides)



Manual windows swap: 5.84 lb

manual mirror swap: I GAINED 0.9 pound with manual mirrors...

flywheel cover: 2.06 lb

Rear hvac ducting: 0.96 lb



I just weighed my car. 2350 pounds with 1/4 tank of gas. That's with full interior down to the floor mats. And the bumper reinforcements and door crash bars are still installed.



Edit, now at 2336lbs.





Edit now weighs 2330 lbs. Installed civic battery (26 lb) in place of my old dsm battery (32 lb)

JonGTR

Rear speakers and some surrounding foam weighed in at 5.3lbs. Would be worth a track only reduction.