DIY - Interior HALOZ Install (56K Beware)
07-25-2004, 01:58 PM
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Re: I NEED SERIOUS SUSPENSION HELP PLEEASSEE
1. Where to get the product and how much it costs
http://www.haloz.biz (Prices are on this website)
2. Tools needed and sizes.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(01).jpg
3. Sizes of wires, # of connectors, etc.
Just get the wiring kit from http://www.haloz.biz - has everything you need.
4. Favorite beer used during installation
Any available.
5. Help needed or what needs to be done professionally for safety sake.
It will help if your comfortable taking apart your dash, and if you have an understanding of basic electrical components. If not, I've provided information to make it simple for anyone (or at least tried).
6. Pictures
Alrighty, if you're ready, here we go...
---------------------------------------------------
Okay you're excited that you made your purchase on the Interior Haloz kit from Blacktibs, but you're overwhelmed at how to actually install it. Well this is my attempt at simplifying the process. *NOTE* I used the wiring kit that Blacktibs sells with his kits, so if you plan on doing it some other way, this DIY may not work for you. So this is the approach I would recommend taking so that you don't get too frustrated.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(02).jpg
1) First, let's look at the Wiring Kit, because there are so many wires and it looks like a big jumble of a mess. Take note of what I've labeled in the pictures. What you're looking at in this picture is the main part of the wiring.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(03).jpg
2) Now in this picture you are looking at the wiring that runs to each of the haloz. The ends that have green and blue tape on them will be connected to the Main Wiring Harness, and then the ends that have Red and Black will be connected to the wires that run from the Haloz themselves.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(04).jpg
3) Alright, here's the first actual piece of work that you need to do. Find one of the clear blue connectors like in the picture, that will fit over the post on the Inline Fuse. Once you have that, set that aside for a second. The wire at the bottom of the picture is the Power Wire. The end that has the white tape on it, needs to be stripped so that the wire is exposed and then crimp on the connector that we set aside. Once the connector is on the wire, you can plug it onto the inline fuse*. The other end of the wire, with the circle loop on it, will be used later, when you put the whole wiring harness into the car - it will be connected to a power source.
*This fuse is important because it protects your haloz from burning out if you ever got a short. So if you ever notice in the future that your haloz aren't working, this fuse would be the one to check - You can replace them easily with the same fuses that you use in your fusebox.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(05).jpg
4) Okay, now this picture is shown just to make you aware of what needs to be connected up LATER. All you will really need to do once the wiring is all in the car, is match up colors. Refer to this picture for details on how to connect the green and blue wires together. DO NOT Do Any Crimping HERE.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(06).jpg
5) This is what your wiring harness should look like after you connected the Power Wire to the fuse. You'll notice that I ran the Power Wire to the + post of a 9V battery and the ground wire from the Black Transformer, to the - post of the battery. I did this to test that the current was running alright, and you'll notice that the switch light came on, so that means that we've done it right. You can use this as a benchmark.
6) For now, you are done with the wiring kit. You must now focus on removing your dash. Refer to other sources for instructions on how to do this, or check out http://groups.msn.com/HyundaiTiburon/dashremoval.msnw for details. What that site won't tell you is that you need to disconnect each connector behind the heater dials and all the switches and clock. This way you can take out the whole dash. However, if you don't want to do this, then it IS possible to just proceed onto Step 7 and 8.
7) From here, you can proceed with the installation of the main wiring harness into the car. Unfortunately I don't have pictures for this, but if you remember there's only two wires that we need to hook up - the Power Wire and the Ground Wire (as demonstrated with the Testing Battery). So all I did was take the whole bunch of wires and put it somewhere right above the fusebox. Then take the Ground Wire, and screw it onto the metal body of the car (whereever you can find a spot). With the other Power Wire, I actually removed the Circle end and stripped one-half inch off the wire, and then spliced it onto the Green w/ Black striped wire shown here. I'm sorry I couldn't take a picture of this, but if I get around to taking my dash apart again, I will gladly do so. After you've completed that, then you can pat yourself on the back, because that was about the HARDEST part of this whole install (minus the dash removal)...
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(07).jpg
8) Here, you're going to have remove the center vents off of the dash. They're held on by four little clips that just need to be pryed away a lil bit, and then you can free off the vent. You'll want to then drill holes with the 1/4" bit, on the outsides of the vents. What I mean by this is, for the vent that's closer to the driver, drill so that the wires will come out towards the driver. And then for the vent that's furthest from the drivers side, drill the hole so that the wires of the halo will come out towards the passenger side. This just allows better access to the wires, and so that the wires won't get caught between the vents. These directions are optional for the placement, but I did it for my benefit.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(08).jpg
9) After drilling the holes, simply follow the instructions on this picture. After you've done this and put the vent back on with the halo installed, your finished product should look like this -
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(09).jpg
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(10).jpg
10) Next comes the Passenger Side Door Vent. I wish I had taken more pictures of this, so that you could see what's going on, but I'll have to work with this for now. Basically, this is a top view of the passenger door with the panel peeled back to show the wiring. The picture describes what's goin on best.
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(11).jpg
11) In this picture, you are seeing where I ran the wire from the door vent so that it was somewhat hidden. I am running it behind the carpet, all the way underneath the passenger's side foor well and behind the center console (where the radio would be). The wire will come out on the other side where the driver's pedals are, like in this picture:
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(12).jpg
12) You'll do the same thing that you did with the passenger's side door, onto the driver's side door, and then run the wire inside the driver's foot well. Now you can refer back to the picture in Step 4, and you'll want to connect the green and blue wire from the "Long" wire (the driver's side door vent) and crimp them into the yellow connectors. Then the green and blue ends from the Center Vents and the Passenger Door will need to be stripped about 1/2" each and then you can twist the blue and blue together and the green and green together, and then insert them into their respective blue connectors on the main wiring harness. Crimp that, and you will be set.
THE FINAL PRODUCT:
.jpg)
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(13).jpg
That is basically it. I know I wasn't as clear as I wanted to be, because I left out some pictures, but I tried. This DIY relies heavily on the pictures to help with the installation, and if in the future, the pictures do not show up, due to unforseen reasons, simply email me at mrpsxplyr@hotmail.com and I'll fix the problem. Send any questions that way as well, or to Blacktibs (http://www.haloz.biz)
Let me know what you think. Thanks, and good luck!
http://www.haloz.biz (Prices are on this website)
2. Tools needed and sizes.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(01).jpg
3. Sizes of wires, # of connectors, etc.
Just get the wiring kit from http://www.haloz.biz - has everything you need.
4. Favorite beer used during installation
Any available.
5. Help needed or what needs to be done professionally for safety sake.
It will help if your comfortable taking apart your dash, and if you have an understanding of basic electrical components. If not, I've provided information to make it simple for anyone (or at least tried).
6. Pictures
Alrighty, if you're ready, here we go...
---------------------------------------------------
Okay you're excited that you made your purchase on the Interior Haloz kit from Blacktibs, but you're overwhelmed at how to actually install it. Well this is my attempt at simplifying the process. *NOTE* I used the wiring kit that Blacktibs sells with his kits, so if you plan on doing it some other way, this DIY may not work for you. So this is the approach I would recommend taking so that you don't get too frustrated.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(02).jpg
1) First, let's look at the Wiring Kit, because there are so many wires and it looks like a big jumble of a mess. Take note of what I've labeled in the pictures. What you're looking at in this picture is the main part of the wiring.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(03).jpg
2) Now in this picture you are looking at the wiring that runs to each of the haloz. The ends that have green and blue tape on them will be connected to the Main Wiring Harness, and then the ends that have Red and Black will be connected to the wires that run from the Haloz themselves.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(04).jpg
3) Alright, here's the first actual piece of work that you need to do. Find one of the clear blue connectors like in the picture, that will fit over the post on the Inline Fuse. Once you have that, set that aside for a second. The wire at the bottom of the picture is the Power Wire. The end that has the white tape on it, needs to be stripped so that the wire is exposed and then crimp on the connector that we set aside. Once the connector is on the wire, you can plug it onto the inline fuse*. The other end of the wire, with the circle loop on it, will be used later, when you put the whole wiring harness into the car - it will be connected to a power source.
*This fuse is important because it protects your haloz from burning out if you ever got a short. So if you ever notice in the future that your haloz aren't working, this fuse would be the one to check - You can replace them easily with the same fuses that you use in your fusebox.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(05).jpg
4) Okay, now this picture is shown just to make you aware of what needs to be connected up LATER. All you will really need to do once the wiring is all in the car, is match up colors. Refer to this picture for details on how to connect the green and blue wires together. DO NOT Do Any Crimping HERE.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(06).jpg
5) This is what your wiring harness should look like after you connected the Power Wire to the fuse. You'll notice that I ran the Power Wire to the + post of a 9V battery and the ground wire from the Black Transformer, to the - post of the battery. I did this to test that the current was running alright, and you'll notice that the switch light came on, so that means that we've done it right. You can use this as a benchmark.
6) For now, you are done with the wiring kit. You must now focus on removing your dash. Refer to other sources for instructions on how to do this, or check out http://groups.msn.com/HyundaiTiburon/dashremoval.msnw for details. What that site won't tell you is that you need to disconnect each connector behind the heater dials and all the switches and clock. This way you can take out the whole dash. However, if you don't want to do this, then it IS possible to just proceed onto Step 7 and 8.
7) From here, you can proceed with the installation of the main wiring harness into the car. Unfortunately I don't have pictures for this, but if you remember there's only two wires that we need to hook up - the Power Wire and the Ground Wire (as demonstrated with the Testing Battery). So all I did was take the whole bunch of wires and put it somewhere right above the fusebox. Then take the Ground Wire, and screw it onto the metal body of the car (whereever you can find a spot). With the other Power Wire, I actually removed the Circle end and stripped one-half inch off the wire, and then spliced it onto the Green w/ Black striped wire shown here. I'm sorry I couldn't take a picture of this, but if I get around to taking my dash apart again, I will gladly do so. After you've completed that, then you can pat yourself on the back, because that was about the HARDEST part of this whole install (minus the dash removal)...
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(07).jpg
8) Here, you're going to have remove the center vents off of the dash. They're held on by four little clips that just need to be pryed away a lil bit, and then you can free off the vent. You'll want to then drill holes with the 1/4" bit, on the outsides of the vents. What I mean by this is, for the vent that's closer to the driver, drill so that the wires will come out towards the driver. And then for the vent that's furthest from the drivers side, drill the hole so that the wires of the halo will come out towards the passenger side. This just allows better access to the wires, and so that the wires won't get caught between the vents. These directions are optional for the placement, but I did it for my benefit.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(08).jpg
9) After drilling the holes, simply follow the instructions on this picture. After you've done this and put the vent back on with the halo installed, your finished product should look like this -
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(09).jpg
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(10).jpg
10) Next comes the Passenger Side Door Vent. I wish I had taken more pictures of this, so that you could see what's going on, but I'll have to work with this for now. Basically, this is a top view of the passenger door with the panel peeled back to show the wiring. The picture describes what's goin on best.
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(11).jpg
11) In this picture, you are seeing where I ran the wire from the door vent so that it was somewhat hidden. I am running it behind the carpet, all the way underneath the passenger's side foor well and behind the center console (where the radio would be). The wire will come out on the other side where the driver's pedals are, like in this picture:
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(12).jpg
12) You'll do the same thing that you did with the passenger's side door, onto the driver's side door, and then run the wire inside the driver's foot well. Now you can refer back to the picture in Step 4, and you'll want to connect the green and blue wire from the "Long" wire (the driver's side door vent) and crimp them into the yellow connectors. Then the green and blue ends from the Center Vents and the Passenger Door will need to be stripped about 1/2" each and then you can twist the blue and blue together and the green and green together, and then insert them into their respective blue connectors on the main wiring harness. Crimp that, and you will be set.
THE FINAL PRODUCT:
http://netfiles.uiuc.edu/cplee/www/photos/...nstall-(13).jpg
That is basically it. I know I wasn't as clear as I wanted to be, because I left out some pictures, but I tried. This DIY relies heavily on the pictures to help with the installation, and if in the future, the pictures do not show up, due to unforseen reasons, simply email me at mrpsxplyr@hotmail.com and I'll fix the problem. Send any questions that way as well, or to Blacktibs (http://www.haloz.biz)
Let me know what you think. Thanks, and good luck!
07-25-2004, 05:30 PM
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Re: Nopi Nationals Sept 18-19
Perfect writeup isn't even close. Man, VERY good job.
ATTENTION DIY MOD< TIME TO UPDATE YOUR DIY LISTING!!!
LOL
Really good job mang.
I would HIGHLY suggest that you get your photos reuploaded at some free online host, just in case. Also, some of the big pictures just don't come up. I clicked on a few and waited for like 5 minutes.
Very good work.
ATTENTION DIY MOD< TIME TO UPDATE YOUR DIY LISTING!!!
LOL
Really good job mang.
I would HIGHLY suggest that you get your photos reuploaded at some free online host, just in case. Also, some of the big pictures just don't come up. I clicked on a few and waited for like 5 minutes.
Very good work.
07-26-2004, 09:22 AM
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Re: ALL OLD MODERATORS, CHECK IN!
Very nice write up. ***** < thats five stars, not some obseen word
Im waiting for a couple things before i do this (yes i arleady have my haloz)
1.) Working on converting the cup holder area to a switch panel (CF w/ billet switches)
2.) Sending my headlights (and haloz AND lunar accents) to blacktibs for repair (one of the high beam leds doesnt work), modification (projector housing), and install.
3.) Chris just posted that he is working now on speaker grille haloz (for me, been in the works for a while, prob will be sold too) so i will wait for those and wire them in w/ the vent haloz.
Im waiting for a couple things before i do this (yes i arleady have my haloz)
1.) Working on converting the cup holder area to a switch panel (CF w/ billet switches)
2.) Sending my headlights (and haloz AND lunar accents) to blacktibs for repair (one of the high beam leds doesnt work), modification (projector housing), and install.
3.) Chris just posted that he is working now on speaker grille haloz (for me, been in the works for a while, prob will be sold too) so i will wait for those and wire them in w/ the vent haloz.
07-26-2004, 12:15 PM
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Re: *POSSIBLE* Lambo Door GB
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (TiburonWao)</div><div class='quotemain'>Did it take a lot of time to do that conection???</div>
Which connection are you talking about?
Thanks for the props, hope it helps.
Which connection are you talking about?
Thanks for the props, hope it helps.
07-27-2004, 12:36 AM
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Re: Post Count
The amount of time spent on this installation can obviously vary depending on the installer's familiarity with the car and with wiring and their comfort with drilling and disassembling parts...
But since I partially knew what I was doing, or at least I had an idea of what I was doing, WHEN I was doing it, I think it took me about 2-3 hours total for the whole thing. I opted for perfection on my installation, so give or take a couple minutes here and there smile.gif
But since I partially knew what I was doing, or at least I had an idea of what I was doing, WHEN I was doing it, I think it took me about 2-3 hours total for the whole thing. I opted for perfection on my installation, so give or take a couple minutes here and there smile.gif
11-30-2008, 09:26 AM
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
Badshah- judging by the color of the fuse used in the write-up its a 5 amp ATO blade fuse, however the type of fuse is inconsequential, and if you want an answer specific to your application simply measure the resistance of the halo and divide 14 (a high approximation of the voltage they will be receiving)by the measured resistance and round up.